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Since joining Burberry earlier this year, Riccardo Tisci has slowly but surely been adding his own touch to the British heritage label. In August, the designer introduced the first major shift in brand visuals: a new logo created in collaboration with British graphic designer and art director Peter Saville. Then, earlier this month, he announced that Burberry would no longer burn £28 million worth of excess clothing and cosmetics (a baffling concept in the first place). Finally, though, came the moment the industry was waiting for: his debut collection as creative director.
On Monday, Tisci presented his first offering for the label — a collection that felt more old school Burberry with classic trenches, ladylike pencil skirts, and pussy-bow blouses. It was demure and, frankly, a little stuffy, a stark departure from the plastic raincoats, oversized statement earrings and rainbow capes that came just a season or so ago. “That’s what fashion should be” Tisci said backstage, according to The Cut. “You can dress the mother, dress the daughter. We have so many stores. Why give just one identity?”
But who exactly then is the woman Tisci is trying to dress? One guess is whomever will buy the product. The collection veered so commercial it's hard not to wonder if that's the sort of design direction he received from the powers that be. Still, it's hard to judge the complete vision of a creative director after just one season, and while we may not be totally sold on Tisci for Burberry just yet, we are optimistic he'll find his footing. The foundation for a well-rounded direction is there — suiting, separates, sportswear — all it needs is a little finessing.
Curious what we mean? Ahead, find seven important takeaways from Riccardo Tisci's big Burberry debut.
Beyoncé Gave Us The First Look, Technically
Ahead of his runway debut, Beyoncé wore two custom Riccardo Tisci for Burberry designs on she and Jay Z's On The Run II Tour, giving the world a sneak peek of what was to come.
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The Collection Is A Mix Of The British Lifestyle
Backstage, Tisci told Vogue he wanted to bring all generations under the Burberry umbrella. "The mother and the daughter, the father and the son," he said, calling the collection "The Kingdom." He continued: "It's like a patchwork or a mix of the British lifestyle."
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There Was Nary A Celebrity In The Front Row
Tisci counts Kanye West, Kim Kardashian -West, Madonna, Nicki Minaj, and many more big names as close, personal friends. His Givenchy shows often had a celebrity-packed front row, so we were surprised to see the audience filled with mostly editors and buyers with little to no fanfare.
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Kendall Jenner Walked Her First Runway Since Those Mean Model Comments
Jenner sparked World War III in the modeling industry with comments she made during an interview with Love magazine, in which she details how she's "super-selective about what shows" she walks. She immediately received backlash, and chose not to participate in New York Fashion Week as a result. No word how her fellow models received her backstage at Burberry.
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The Iconic Heritage Check Print Is Now A Stripe
Love the rainbow version of the iconic Burberry check? Now it comes in a striped version.
Photo: Estrop/Getty Images.Clik here to view.
The Menswear Was Actually Better Than Womenswear
Tisci has made it known that he wants to Burberry to be a destination for men's tailoring. On the runway, he debuted what he called a new "English fit," which mixed traditional pleated suit trousers and blazers on with less expected silhouettes.
Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images.Clik here to view.
Burberry Wants To Make Bubble Hemlines Happen (Again)
...to which we say, no thank you!
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