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Young Working Class Women Share The Discrimination They Face At Work

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Around three months into a new job, a few years ago, while I was running a daily news conference, my editor-in-chief tried to convince me to write about social mobility. I was the right person to write the piece, I was told, because, as the editor said, “I thought I grew up poor – but not as poor as you.”

What she knew of me was that my hometown, in Lincolnshire, was around 150 miles north of the media bubble I now inhabited and that I grew up with a single mum, a nurse. I laughed while the rest of the team squirmed and stared down into their computers. 

At the time I brushed it off but I’ve since asked myself and others: what is the correct way to address a comment like that? And what exactly does it constitute? Certainly it was aimed at my upbringing – the assumption that I come from a working class family was admittedly correct – and it was also embarrassing in its delivery. Not malicious, perhaps, but uncomfortable at best and undermining at worst.

Today, class discrimination is as insidious and difficult to spot as ever – and conversations around the issue are arguably still in their infancy. The Labour Party has called for a ban on fee-paying schools, which has reignited political debate about the role of public schooling, but most people are already living with the consequences of Britain’s class hierarchy, which plays out in workplaces all over the country. 

Among those who are “upwardly mobile” in the class system, there’s often an underlying feeling of acute imposter syndrome – and a learned attitude that it’s only the anomalies who “make it”, either because of a stroke of luck or dogged hard work. The resulting implication is that working class people who move in middle class circles or sectors should be in some way grateful for their position. And it’s bullshit. 

In practice, that attitude plays out as the “class pay gap”. Research from the UK Labour Force Survey estimates that working class people earn on average £6,800 per year (around 17%) less than their middle class colleagues in elite sectors like finance, medicine and law. The gap is largely due to differences in education, “occupational segregation” – whereby working class people are more likely to enter the workforce on a lower salary – and an overarching, deeply embedded system that favours the wealthy. Working class employees are also reportedly less likely to feel entitled to ask for a promotion or a pay rise. Perhaps unsurprisingly, when combined with other factors like gender, race, age and sexuality, the resulting gap is considerably worse. 

In short, the issue is a lot more impactful than simply being dubbed the token northerner in a London office and not being “able to take the joke”. So much so that last month the Trades Union Congress (TUC) called for an end to class discrimination in the UK and for new legal measures to be taken to protect workers from falling victim to it. Class prejudice, the TUC says, means that graduates from wealthier backgrounds are more than twice as likely to start on £30,000 as their working class peers. “We all deserve an equal chance in life, whatever our background,” Frances O’Grady, the TUC’s general secretary told Refinery29 UK. “But if you’re working class, the odds are stacked against you. Not only is that an injustice, it’s a waste of some of Britain’s best talent.” 

Sam Friedman and Daniel Laurison of the London School of Economics found plentiful evidence for this. In The Class Ceiling: Why It Pays To Be Privileged, they concluded that those from privileged backgrounds who attain a 2:2 degree from university are still much more likely to “get a top job than working-class students who went to the same universities and got a 1st”. Black British working class women have “average earnings in top jobs that are £20,000 less per year than those of privileged-origin white men,” they found.

“The government could make a difference by making class discrimination unlawful, just like for race, gender and disability,” O’Grady continues. “There should be a legal duty on public bodies to address class and income inequality. And it should be compulsory for employers to report their class pay gap.”

According to some reporting, the pay gap is highest in sectors like finance, technology and medicine – and, of course, the media. When the BBC revealed its own pay gap in the summer of 2017, the conversation (perhaps rightly) centred around its chronic gender and race gaps. But one conversation that didn’t get much light was the organisation’s class gap. If you think about it, class underpins and intersects with race and gender – it’s all part of the same picture. 

The data showed that 45% of the BBC’s highest paid employees went to private school. As Sky’s political correspondent, Lewis Goodall pointed out at the time, that compares to just 7% of the general population. 

Class discrimination plays out in many different ways and it’s time we started to have a meaningful conversation about it. Or so say these three women who spoke to Refinery29 about their experiences.

Holly Peacock-Goodwin, 32, a digital strategist from Co. Durham

I learned to send emails so I wasn’t undermined for my northern accent. 

“You don’t forget being called a ‘pit-yacker’ in a hurry. Especially at work. For those not in the know, that’s a gobby person from the mining communities up north. At the time I was a young employee in a predominantly older, white male London office. It was said in front of my other colleagues in my first week at the company. That was kind of the vibe from there on in. 

“My Durham accent is quite strong I suppose and has frequently become a talking point. People like to imitate it and mock the way I speak, which isn’t unusual, I suppose. But in the workplace it can be very off-putting – and it can feel like people just aren’t listening to what you’re saying because they’re focusing on the ‘entertaining’ way you’re saying it.

“The other connotations I’ve found associated with my northern, working class background are being deemed ‘aggressive’ in the way I speak, and thick. I remember discussing with a client how to best communicate a complex energy issue to the public. The conclusion was that we should ‘aim it at Geordies’ because ‘if they can understand it, anyone will’. I was told I wasn’t the ‘right fit’ to go in front of the board. Time and time again I couldn’t act authentically and, in turn, my confidence almost completely eroded.

“I quickly learned to send emails so I didn’t have to speak out loud as much. Around the same period of time, in my mid 20s, I remember trying to mask my inflections so much that an interviewer asked me where I was from and pointed out that my accent was ‘all over the place’. I began to write more to show my strengths – getting ahead in business is usually about having your voice heard and listened to, and because mine was so different to the status quo I was undoubtedly disadvantaged. No one can interrupt you on paper. 

“Now there’s a whole new set of connotations of being white, northern and working class. Thanks to the co-opting of this section of society by the likes of Nigel Farage and Boris Johnson, people assume you’re a Brexiteer. And years on from being called a ‘pit-yacker’ it still feels like it’s just accepted that it’s okay to cut someone down because of class. No one should have to respond to that. It’s not a joke, is it?” 

Mikai McDermott, 23, a freelance hairstylist from Newham, east London

We’re not having the right conversations about how layers of privilege work.

“British society has a very false sense of meritocracy in the working world. And I think that very much parallels how we treat working class kids in school, and universities. It’s based around the idea that you just need to work hard and you will succeed and, really, it’s just not true. There’s no discourse around how privilege works – and how layers of privilege work. 

“I’m from a single-parent family in Newham. I would say I’m now technically middle class because of my job and further education (I’m currently studying for a master’s degree in empires, colonialism and globalisation at the London School of Economics and already have a degree from Warwick). Going to Warwick was my first encounter of being from a different class and from a minority ethnic group, I’d say. I didn’t even realise race was a ‘thing’ until 18 – at school I’d been surrounded by black and Asian kids who looked and spoke like me. I didn’t do grammar lessons, I didn’t do debating societies and I spoke in colloquialisms. It was a huge culture shock to suddenly have people commenting on my hair, the way I dress and the things I eat. 

“When I moved into the working world – especially during a brief stint in advertising after university – I found that I was often surrounded by people I just didn’t relate to. People who thought nothing of borrowing upwards of £10,000 from their parents, who spoke about the ‘bank of mum and dad’. I learned to keep quiet. I didn’t want them to find out that my family wasn’t like that. I didn’t want them to know that I was the odd one out. I suppose I was embarrassed. 

“Now I’ve developed a ‘professional’ voice but I still struggle when I’m confronted by classism or racism or both at work (it can be hard to tell where one ends and the other begins). I react defensively – while black public school kids learned to articulate and assimilate themselves better, I don’t feel as equipped for this I suppose. Much of what holds us back is access. Especially in creative industries, the expectation to work for free just to get a foot in the door is ludicrous. It means that whole sectors of society are completely written out of these jobs. It’s those structural issues that we need to urgently address. 

“In some aspects class is just as important as race in discussions about access and opportunity. The emerging black middle class is very separate from the lived experience of black and ethnic minority people in Britain, even from London. There’s not enough conversation about the nuances in race and class and how they interact. I’d like to see that change.” 

Nicola Slawson, 34, a journalist from Shrewsbury

She looked at what I was wearing, paused, then said: ‘There’s a sale on in Whistles, you know.’

“It’s the things that people don’t see – all the extra hoops you have to jump through just to get a glimpse at an opportunity – that really shows how class discrimination works in this country. At one point I was working literally around the clock – completing work experience at a publication in the day and assisting in a boarding school at night – just to be qualified to apply for a bursary scheme aimed at people like me.

“Thankfully, I was awarded the bursary and began a prestigious course at City, University of London and began lodging with an elderly lady in exchange for cheap rent. Not long after I started the course – with a load of very posh people and two others who were beneficiaries of the bursary – one of the other students turned to me and said that it was ‘great’ that ‘poor people like [me] can try to be a journalist’.

“Once I started working at a national newspaper things weren’t much different. While men with plummy accents on the same starter level as me were taken to lunches by very senior people, I was largely ignored and felt worried to speak up. I ended up being there for three years and it steadily eroded my confidence. I felt overwhelmingly like I didn’t fit in. A colleague made a point of taking in what I was wearing, paused, then said: ‘There’s a sale on in Whistles you know.’

“That kind of sums it up: this upper tier of people who casually wear expensive brands like Whistles and act like they’re saving the world. I would get so frustrated in ideas meetings where they told everyone to remember just how privileged we all were, and all the time I was barely surviving on the pay they gave me with no back-up. It all came from good intentions, but it’s ironic that you can’t even spot the privilege you have when you go looking for it. 

“People talk about ‘failure’ as a kind of abstract thing now that you can control – that you should just bounce back; learn from your mistake and move on. But there’s a misunderstanding that many of us just cannot afford to do that. If I make a mistake there’s no financial safety net waiting to catch me or cushion the blow. It’s my whole livelihood that goes. It means you live with a different kind of anxiety about work. The odds really are already stacked against us.”

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New Music To Know This Week: Jessie Reyez Humanizes Immigrants & More

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LOS ANGELES, CA – MARCH 28: Jessie Reyez is seen as Spotify presents The Billie Eilish Experience at The Stalls at Skylight Row on March 28, 2019 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Emma McIntyre/Getty Images for Spotify)

Ever since my first job at MTV working as a music programmer, I can’t stop trying to match people with music they might like. So, I wrote a book called Record Collecting for Girls and started interviewing musicians. The Music Concierge is a column where I share music I’m listening to that you might enjoy, with a little context. Get everything I’ve recommended this year on Spotify, follow me on Twitter or Facebook, and leave a comment below telling me what you’re listening to this week.

Jessie Reyez “Far Away”

Jessie Reyez shares a haunting song and video with this one, singing to a lover who can’t get papers to be in the same country and lamenting a government that keeps them apart. But in the video she takes on the divide between Trump supporters and immigrants, showing the all too real pain of families who are torn apart by ICE. The wistful tenor of her voice is as impactful and moving as the images of immigrants facing guns and tear gas.

Teenear “Dolla $igns”

If you missed the amplified snaps from early ’00s R&B, Teenear is bringing them back. They’re the star, along with her amazing voice, of this new track. The production here is reminiscent of something I’d expect to hear Usher or Ciara singing over from that time, but it has enough elements of new productions by Mustard and his ilk to still feel modern. What’s old and all-consuming is Teenear’s vocals. They sound steeped in history and sadness but are pushed forward in a way that’s very now. Don’t be surprised when this song hooks you.

Samantha Urbani “Made In Love”

How about a little dance party? I know I could use one. Samantha Urbani brings exactly what I want to it, with a callback to Stacey Q’s “Two of Hearts” beat and the spirit of early ’00s Kylie Minogue. There’s an ethereal vibe to the music that compliments her voice so nicely. I can’t get enough.

DRAMA “Hold On”

Speaking of dance parties, DRAMA keeps mine going with their new single. Am I happy or am I sad when I listen to this track? Is it gossiping about an ex or getting me to shake my booty? Some songs can do both. This Chicago duo have some kind of magic touch to make such an enjoyable song about what sounds like a breakup.

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Good News For Fans Of The Crown: Netflix Is Doubling Down On The Royals

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The Crown – Elizabeth – Elizabeth at Prince Philip’s investiture

If you love The Crown, get ready for some great news. Yes, season 3 is set to be released on November 17, but it gets better. The show’s creator, Peter Morgan, has just signed a multi-year contract with Netflix to create and develop shows and films for the streaming platform.

Morgan is the creative mind behind every episode of The Crown’s first two seasons. Because of him, the world of one of our favourite historical dramas goes round, but The Crown is far from Morgan’s only noteworthy credit. He has had a hand in numerous hit historical films, many of which have garnered him critical acclaim as a writer, in addition to two Oscar nominations. Morgan has writing credits for Bohemian Rhapsody, The Last King of Scotland, and The Other Boleyn Girl. His Oscar nominations come from writing credits for The Queen and Frost/Nixon

The Crown was a game changer for Netflix. It has brought in Emmys and Golden Globes for Claire Foy, who played Queen Elizabeth II in seasons 1 and 2, as well as awards for John Lithgow, who portrayed Winston Churchill. The series as a whole has also earned nominations for Outstanding Performance in a Drama Series for both seasons. Already, seasons 3’s release is eagerly awaited, even more so with the announcement that Olivia Colman would be taking over the role of the queen for the next two seasons. Among viewers, the sentiment is the same. Both season 1 and 2 have a 90% rating on Rotten Tomatoes. Netflix has seen what the people want and is taking big steps to give them even more of it.

Morgan joins the ranks of fellow creators of wildly successful shows Shonda Rhimes and Ryan Murphy, who have also signed deals with Netflix to create new and compelling projects that will hopefully become the next most bingeable show. 

No rumours or announcements have been made as far as any potential projects, but if we had it our way, we would have endless beautifully-shot historical dramas forever.

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Phoebe Waller-Bridge Tells Us On SNL Why We Lust After The Hot Priest

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SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE — “Phoebe Waller-Bridge” Episode 1769 — Pictured: Host Phoebe Waller-Bridge during the monologue on Saturday, October 5, 2019 — (Photo by: Will Heath/NBC)

There’s a reason why the priest in Fleabag is referred to by fans as the Hot Priest. It’s not that complicated, and Phoebe Waller-Bridge, the creator of the show, knows it. 

Fleabag came from a very personal place for me. It began as a way to get Andrew Scott to dress up as a priest and tell me that he loves me,” Waller-Bridge joked during her Saturday Night Live monologue. “It took me six years and two seasons to achieve it, but I did it.” 

Scott has garnered the undivided (read: thirsty) attention of literally everyone who has watched the show. We might have been confused at points as to whether Hot Priest’s back-and-forth with Fleabag was irresistible sexual tension or, at times, manipulative. We have rewatched the series and three things hold true: it’s a brilliant show, the speech at the wedding makes us cry every time, and Hot Priest’s allure is not easily articulated…until now.

During her inaugural SNL host monologue of what we hope is one of many more to come, Waller-Bridge attempted to explain why we all think Priest wasn’t a descriptive enough character name. “Obviously, Andrew is hot, but this priest character caused such a horn-storm,” said Waller-Bridge. “Andrew and I were trying to figure out what it was about him that was driving women so mental.” The answer is quite simple. Really, it’s not that deep. “We boiled it down and realised he was doing this one thing: listening. Really, really listening. Try it, guys,” Waller-Bridge said with a cheeky smile.

That goes for everyone. Quick tip: if you want to have the same inexplicable allure as the Hot Priest, active listening — and maybe sharing a couple cans of gin and tonic — are the way to most people’s hearts, and Fleabag proved it.

Watch the monologue here…

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You Can’t Make A Tomlette Without Breaking Some Greggs: Succession Episode 9 Recap

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Congress never had a chance. In Succession’s penultimate episode, the Roy Squad swarms our national’s fine and totally-not-corrupt capital in a Trump-meets-Kardashian political outing, with enough drama and corruption to last us until next week’s finale. 

Before we get into the recap, a quick history lesson! The motto of Washington D.C. is “Justitia Omnibus,” meaning “justice for all.” The phrase appears on the corporate seal of the district, which depicts a man standing on what appears to be the shoulders of a woman. Those same words close out our country’s “Pledge of Allegiance,” as taught to me by years in the public school system. One place this concept doesn’t exist? Within the halls of a Senate hearing in which Waystar Royco is being questioned. No one’s getting justice, and there is no “all,” only one: Logan (Brian Cox).

“DC” opens with a frat party in Logan’s den: the Roy boys are watching a 20/20-esque special about the allegations against Brightstar Cruise Line. In the report, Lester McClintock, Gerri Killman (J. Smith Cameron), Kendall Roy (Jeremy Strong), and Tom Wamsgans (Matthew Macfadyen) are specifically named, and tied to the coverups. The team’s initial plan is say “Fuck ‘em” to the allegations and basically discredit the company’s whistleblower, James Weisel. But then an old friend of Siobhan Roy’s (Sarah Snook) pops up: Senator Gil Eavis (Eric Bogosian). He calls for a Congressional hearing regarding the allegations, but what he really wants is to finally see Logan burn. (Quick Logan enemy count ahead of the finale: The Pierces, Stewy [Arian Moayed], Sandy [Larry Pine], Gil, and Marcia [Hiam Abbass] — who doesn’t appear at all this episode.)

Gerri dismisses the hearing as no more than just “C-SPAN filler,” but reality sets in once the Roys and their inner-circle arrive in D.C. and realise that Gil not only has an advantage by sparring with Tom (who is asked about a series of 67 emails sent to Greg [Nicholas Braun] with the subject line: “You can’t make a Tomlette without breaking some Greggs“), but he also has a key witness against Lester. What with her being more than willing to share her story, and the shareholders meeting only weeks away, Waystar is in big, big trouble. 

This is a mess, but it’s also part of Shiv’s plan from “Dundee.” Remember, Rhea Jarrell (Holly Hunter) is CEO now, so she’ll take most of the heat for any failures in the board meeting, opening up a seat at the head of the table for Shiv once again. While part of Shiv’s plan works — in the final scene of the episode, Rhea tells Logan she’s out; there are too many bodies in the closet — she also doesn’t quite account for the idiots in the room: Her brothers.

Roman Roy (Kieran Culkin) has been on the sidelines, business-wise, for most of this season, but that all changes when he’s held hostage at a hotel in Turkey while trying to convince a bajillionaire to purchase Waystar Royco in the event that the company gets fucked at the Congress hearing. Tasked with this high-level assignment, Roman immediately tells his dad he is...what’s the word…unqualified. But Logan doesn’t care.

“You act the fuck knuckle, but people like you,” Logan tells him, ending the debate, and sending him off with Laird (Danny Huston) and Carl (David Rasche) in tow to provide a back-up plan if things in D.C. go sour. 

It turns out Roman is a great hostage negotiator — not in terms of negotiating himself and dozens of other hostages free from being withheld in a Turkish hotel, but in terms of negotiating deals for his dad while being a hostage. He gets a verbal confirmation that his new billionaire bestie and his dad are down to purchase Waystar and take it private. And suddenly, just like that, Roman isn’t such a bad idea for a successor after all… at least in the eyes of Logan, who is clearly more confident in his youngest child than he lets on. (By, you know, emotionally and physically knocking him down at every opportunity.) He finally did something right! And it was pretty easy for him to pull off. “Should we see if any of the other hostages want to cut a deal?” he jokes. 

Honestly, all the kids pull through for an undeserving Logan in this episode. Roman cinches his deal, Kendall gracefully saves the hearing by calling Gil out for personal bias against ATN, and Shiv successfully convinces Gil’s key witness to not take the stand. Originally, Rhea was supposed to take care of the witness with Shiv — “soft skills lady-duty shitwork” — but when the car arrives at the playground where the witness is playing with her kid, Rhea sits it out. “You don’t have to do this,” she tells Shiv, not understanding just how badly Shiv wants to impress her dad and get the company. Rhea isn’t cut from the Roy cloth, so she just doesn’t get just how fucked up this family is.

Logan’s kids accept Logan for his aggression, deceit, and greed, but it’s all too much for Rhea. Instead of her being pushed out, as Shiv hoped, she willingly steps down because she’s scared of Logan. He’s a liar, and she can’t trust liars. “You know who I am,” he tells her, almost begging her to stay on as CEO. “I don’t know if you care about anything,” she replies. “And it scares me.”

The natural response to someone being told that they are scary, intimidating, and morally bankrupt is for them to sit back and take a minute to reflect. But Logan’s a bloodthirsty businessman. No reflection. No apologies. He wants a “blood sacrifice” (I really hope he doesn’t mean this literally…) to ensure the shareholder’s happiness, so someone’s definitely getting fired. Someone big. Shiv clearly thinks she’s caught her dad’s eye with her commitment to him by the episode’s end, but is it enough for him to see her as more than just his token smart child?

Shockingly, the Kendall’s daddy rap did NOT come up once, which is clearly an oversight as we all know that is all anyone would be talking about. 

Cousin Greg’s Corner:

Greg cuts ties with his grandpa  — losing his chance at inheriting $250 million  — after his pep talk with Uncle Logs in Scotland. He really feels a part of the family,  without knowing just how rich his extended family is. He tells Connor (Alan Ruck) and Tom that even without the quarter of a million, he’s still inheriting $5 mill as a back-up, which is apparently…trash. “Five will drive you un poco loco, my friend,” Connor tells him, explaining it’s not enough to retire, and will make him feel like the “poorest rich person in America.”

I’d also like to remind everyone that Greg literally has stolen incriminating documents hidden in apartment (aka Kendall’s flop house). His name was also brought up during the hearing, which means he’s on everyone’s radar. This cruise drama is so far from over.

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Domestic Violence: Abuse Can Come In Many Forms

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Ruth Glenn says strangers often try to change the subject when she tells them what she does for a living. “It’s such an unpleasant topic and they get uncomfortable,” explains Glenn, the CEO and president of the National Coalition Against Domestic Violence. A survivor herself, Glenn understands the reaction, but says it’s something that people should take the time to understand. Each year, more than 12 million women and men — 24 people per minute, on average — are victims of rape, physical violence, or staking by an intimate partner in the U.S., according to the National Domestic Violence Hotline. It’s more prevalent than you’d think, and could someday impact you or someone you know. It’s worth taking the time to understand it, and the many forms it can take. 

“When you say ‘domestic violence,’ there’s the expectation that there’s been some physical harm to someone,” Glenn explains. “In fact, that’s not always the case. Domestic violence can and does take many forms.” The kinds of altercations you see in shows like Big Little Lies that involve hitting, kicking, and pushing are just one facet of what it can look like. Glenn says it’s important for people to understand this, so they can identify when they’re being mistreated in a relationship or when their loved ones are in trouble. Just in time for Domestic Violence Awareness Month, here are different forms abuse can take to be mindful of.

If you or someone you know is experiencing domestic violence, please call the National Domestic Violence Helpline on 0808 2000 247.

Emotional 

Glenn says that emotional abuse is one of the most damaging forms — and one of the hardest to recognise. “It involves putting the victim down and crazy-making,” Glenn says. “Telling them they’re not worth anything, or ‘go ahead and leave, no one else will take you.’ It might mean threatening to take their children away.” Glenn says that it’s “torture” to be manipulated in this way. “It takes away a survivor’s autonomy by tearing them down,” she says. It can come in the form of insults, criticism, gaslighting, ignoring, or even forcing a victim to take drugs or alcohol, according to the Arizona Coalition to End Sexual & Domestic Violence. 

If you think this could be happening to someone close to you, Glenn says you might subtly help them recognise the abuse by asking them questions such as: “You used to be so energetic, what’s going on?” Or: “Is something going on? When you’re ready to talk I’m here.” You can do this gentle prompt with other forms of abuse, too.

Sexual 

Glenn explains that this could come in the form of partner or marital rape, or forcing sex on another person who did not give consent. It also could take the form of a perpetrator tricking or forcing someone into getting pregnant. 

According to ACESDV, it could also involve using guilt, manipulation, or forcing someone to have specific sexual experiences that they don’t want. 

Financial

This can take a few different forms, Glenn explains. The abuser might direct deposit the survivor’s paycheck into an account they never see, or not allow them to work at all. “A victim could also be given an allowance, or a certain amount to spend on themselves and the children per week,” Glenn explains. “The perpetrator might have run up the victim’s credit so she has a harder time leaving. We’ve even seen cases where they forge signatures on important financial documents.”

Maria Veltre, Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, Santander Bank, explains that this kind of abuse makes it “difficult, if not impossible, to ‘just leave.’”

Financial abuse is tricky to identify and remedy, Glenn explains. However, there are resources. NNEDV offers financial literacy programs women can take via webinar to try to get out of their situation. And, Santander Bank has partnered with them to fund a micro-loan program, which allows survivors to establish and, in many cases, repair their credit score.

Physical 

This is easier to identify, but still hard to come to terms with. It could be physically aggressive behavior, the withholding of physical needs, or indirect harmful behavior, according to the ACESDV. That can mean anything from slapping to withholding food to injuring someone’s child or pet to trapping someone in a room. 

Control

Glenn says that domestic abuse is often about a perpetrator wanting to have control over their partner. This can take the form of some of the things already on this list, but it can also mean stalking them, or keeping tabs on their whereabouts. They might measure their gas tank, and make the victim answer questions about where they’ve been. They could put spyware on their phone, so they can see who they’re talking to. It also could mean isolating a survivor from their friends and family, Glenn says. 

“When we talk about abuse, we can’t do that without talking about power and control,” Glenn says. 

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Photos Of A Butch Woman That Challenge What Pregnancy ‘Should’ Look Like

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At some point, Ari Fitz kind of forgot that she even has a womb. The YouTuber is a masculine, black, queer woman — and in embracing her masculinity and watching family and friends embrace it as well, she tells Refinery29, she lost touch with the idea that something society codifies as purely feminine, like pregnancy, is even possible for bodies like hers.

It took another masculine YouTuber, Frankie Smith, getting pregnant to jolt Fitz out of that idea and to make her think about the intersections of butchness and pregnancy. The result is a gorgeous short documentary called My Mama Wears Timbs, which explores Smith’s experiences as a pregnant, butch woman of colour.

Early into her pregnancy, Smith approached Fitz about doing a maternity clothing fashion video for her YouTube channel, but when Fitz started googling maternity photoshoots she realised that pregnant women like Smith are hardly ever represented.

“The images are not anyone who would look like myself or my friends,” Fitz tells Refinery29. “They’re all of a girl in a flowy dress with her boyfriend or husband and she’s in nature and she has a flower crown.” You know the type.

There’s nothing wrong with these kinds of photos, of course, but they paint a picture of pregnancy that will never reflect women like Smith. It was then that Fitz knew this was a much bigger conversation that needed to happen. She created the documentary to show that “masculinity and motherhood can co-exist and it’s not that deep,” she says.

She’s right. The fact that Smith is a cisgender woman who has always wanted a baby and decided with her partner that she would get pregnant is not a difficult concept to grasp. Yet when people look at Smith in her snapbacks and men’s jeans they have trouble connecting her pregnancy to her identity as a butch woman.

“By being gay you’re already outside of the norm. And then by being a tomboy as a woman you’re already outside of the norm again,” Smith says in the video. “So whatever you are, you’re put into a category and you’re expected to not do anything that goes outside of that category.”

Fitz theorises that Smith and butch pregnant women like her get weird looks or confuse people because those people essentially think of them as men. The problem, she says, is that people struggle to understand intersectionality.

“There are people who will embrace your masculinity, but they do it through the knowledge of male-hood,” Fitz says. “People think in their minds that they’re accepting, but they’re fitting you into the box that they understand.”

The box of masculinity that we as a society understand doesn’t allow for “feminine” desires like wanting to carry a baby. If a masculine-presenting queer woman is in a relationship with a feminine-presenting woman, as Smith is, the automatic assumption is that the more feminine woman would carry their child. Yet that’s not always the case, and the way that a couple like Smith and her partner gets a baby doesn’t really matter.

“Children don’t care about how you’re dressed,” Fitz says. “A newborn isn’t worried about the fit of her mom’s pants or whether or not she wears a dress.”

It’s been two years since the release of My Mama Wears Timbs and, as Smith tells us over email, “life has been great”, though hectic – they have since had another child who was carried by Smith’s wife Tia. The couple are too busy embracing the joys and challenges of parenthood to think of their family unit as anything other than normal, until people begin asking questions.

“Honestly, sometimes I forget that we’re lesbian parents until someone in Target asks Tia and I if we’re sisters. Or the good ole ‘omg who’s the mom?!’ question is one that we get a lot too. When Cody was first born, we’d get shy and sometimes even say ‘yeah we’re sisters’ just to get out of what felt like an awkward situation or to avoid being judged by a stranger. But now, we ALWAYS tell people ‘No, we’re not sisters, we’re married and these are OUR children.’ We are too proud of our family and too secure with ourselves to hide the truth to make other people comfortable. Plus, it actually feels really good to be able to take part in normalising the idea of queer families.”

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I Confronted My Rapist 14 Years Later & This Is What It Was Like

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Warning: The following article includes details which some readers might find upsetting.

“Things We Didn’t Talk About When I Was a Girl” is a memoir about Jeannie Vanasco’s friendship with the man who sexually assaulted her when they were both 19 years old. As a means of processing her conflicted feelings, she resolves to face her trauma head-on. Here she describes the events that led to her getting in touch with the man who raped her, 14 years later…

There’s nothing original about my story, and that’s the point. My best friend – I’ll call him Mark – and I were at a party with friends. We were 19 years old. We were drinking. I passed out, and the next thing I remember: Mark undressing me in his basement room. He told me I was dreaming. I cried, and he told me not to cry. I became rigid, like an animal who senses it’s impossible to bolt. 

I became rigid, like an animal who senses it’s impossible to bolt. 

“It’s okay,” he said, pressing his fingers inside me. “It’s okay. Everything is going to be okay.”

He sounded like he was putting a child to sleep. I told myself this was happening to someone else.

There have always been Marks, and I doubt they’ll stop existing. Although these Marks rarely apologise for their crimes. Rarely do they say, “I knew what I was doing was wrong while I was doing it, and I did it anyway.” 

But after 14 years of silence between us, that’s what this Mark said. I’d called him to say that I was writing a book about us and what the rape did to us.

He agreed to speak on record, saying, “It’s the least I can do.”

He told me the rape changed the narrative he could tell about himself: “I thought I was somewhat good, or one of the good guys. That wasn’t a fiction that I felt I could maintain after that.”

The rape changed my personal narrative too – or it confirmed what I’d suspected but was afraid to admit: I cared too much about pleasing men. While the rape was happening, I didn’t stop Mark – partly because I didn’t want to embarrass him. What sort of feminist acts like that? I asked myself, instead of asking: What sort of friend does what Mark did?

While transcribing the audio of our phone conversations, I felt ashamed by how much I thanked and reassured him: “I really appreciate this” and “I hope this is somewhat helpful for you to talk about” and “I didn’t want to be hurtful” and “I hope you know that I don’t hate you” and “I hope it’s helpful for you to know that I believe you’re a good guy” and “If it helps you to know”. I’d like to claim I was manipulating him, putting him at ease so that he would continue answering my questions, yet I slipped so easily into comforting him because his discomfort made me so uncomfortable. I finally understood what Judith Butler meant when she defined ‘gender performativity’how the behaviour may not feel like a performance but is a repetitive act outside of the individual’s control. 

If Mark were a meathead, if Mark were a bro-y guy, if Mark hadn’t admitted his guilt and reflected on it, then maybe I could have felt angry at him. Instead, I pitied him. He suffered from scoliosis and severe depression, lacked good health insurance, had never been in a romantic relationship in his life, and was still a virgin.

A few months after we spoke on the phone, I flew from Maryland to Ohio to confront him in person. I told myself I’d be tougher this time. I recorded our conversation, and one passage has stayed with me:

ME: It’s been so long that it’s hard to reconstruct, but the one thing that confuses me –
HIM: Okay –
ME: Why carry me into the basement? That’s the one thing – I don’t really remember the house that well.
HIM: If I’m being totally honest, this is a two-part answer. One, yes, I used to hang out with people in the basement. I had a computer down there and we’d watch movies. Two – [Waiter brings me another cocktail, takes away our plates.] 

ME: So you were saying, one, you would go down there – 

HIM: But two, the more I think about it, the more I’m certain that some version of what happened was in my head.
ME: You thought that by suggesting –
HIM: That something might happen. I don’t think I thought, If I could just get her downstairs I could do this. I’m sure I thought downstairs was to my advantage. 

I could have pushed harder. I wished I’d said, “How could you possibly have thought that anything sexual would be consensual – considering I was fall-down drunk?” Instead, I pivoted back to expressing concern for him.

ME: For so long I muddled the narrative, making excuses for you. How you were drunk and all. But then I think about how manipulative you were that night. You hushed me when I started crying, told me that it was just a dream. I recently went through a period where I felt really pissed off. And now, I don’t know, 14 years later, hearing you say that you betrayed me, I feel grateful. And it’s so messed up – that I feel grateful to you for acknowledging your betrayal of me and agreeing to all this. 

HIM: You can be, but you don’t have to be grateful to me. 

ME: But that’s why I’m interested in the project. Because I can’t sort out my feelings. For so long I was afraid to contact you because I worried about your feelings. I didn’t want you to get depressed. 

A month before the book came out, I asked my publisher to send Mark a finished copy. In an email, I told him that it might be hard for him to read. Again, there I was, checking in on his emotional wellbeing.

“I expect that you’re right,” he replied, “it will be difficult reading, but I suppose that’s unavoidable, and beside the point. If it was an easy subject to relive, you’d hardly have bothered to write it. I’m sure you were more than fair and if not… well, I’m hardly in a position to complain, am I?” 

I understand why nostalgia, for hundreds of years, was considered a chronic mental illness. 

I want to hate him, but I can’t.

If you have experienced sexual violence of any kind, please visit Rape Crisis or call 0808 802 9999.

Things We Didn’t Talk About When I Was a Girl by Jeannie Vanasco is out now, published by Duckworth.

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The New Generation Of Vintage Traders You’ll Love

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How do you solve a problem like fast fashion? Recycling isn’t as simple as it sounds; ‘Made in Britain’ can still mean poverty wages; cotton is a problematic fave. In all the conversations happening around ethics, sustainability and style just now, it can sometimes feel like questions outweigh answers by 10 to one.

But if there’s a single solution that pretty much everyone can agree on, it’s putting secondhand first. Whether that’s preloved clothes or unloved, dead stock sitting under decades of dust or another go on last year’s Zara, old clothes are the ultimate get-out-of-guilt-free card – and they’ve never looked so fresh.

Perhaps you’re sceptical. Maybe your image of vintage shopping was forged in adolescence, standing in the corner of a kilo sale or sweating into a £500 Ossie Clark while a sales assistant with a micro fringe asks if you need any help with the zip. I was a vintage seller myself for six months in 2009, flogging musty polyester shirtwaisters to bemused tourists in Camden Market for minimum wage, wearing a fascinator I’d made myself by stapling fabric onto a bit of cardboard from a cereal box. It was a dismal time.

But where secondhand clothes used to be a rebellion against the mainstream, now the lines between old, new and ‘alternative’ are much less rigid. Depop has democratised the world of fashion resale, creating its own celebrities and attracting stars like Lily Allen, Emily Ratajkowski and Tess Holliday to flog their designer cast-offs. WAH Nails and Beautystack founder Sharmadean Reid currently has preloved Levi’s, Alexander Wang heels and Skepta x Nike Air Max up for sale on her page, with prices as low as £18.

Meanwhile on Instagram, there’s a growing breed of digitally enabled, user-friendly traders with their fingers firmly on the fashion pulse. Forget the old stereotypes of twee women in rockabilly petticoats and sneering hipsters in ’80s shell suits. Vintage sellers have evolved, just like their stock.

“There seems to be a preconception that vintage equals victory rolls and big, full, floral dresses with tiny waists and bows and frills. I’ve got a lot of time for that kind of traditional approach to vintage, but it’s not for everyone,” says Sarah Brand, who launched her vintage dress collection, Another Matinee last month in a flurry of sumptuous, candy-coloured Instagram posts. “I’ve really tried to show people how easy and modern wearing vintage can be. You can wear a prairie dress to the pub with your favourite trainers. But when you have a big party or wedding, it looks equally good with your hair in a bun and a slick of lipstick.”

While buying your vintage via your phone might feel like cheating – the antithesis of the slow, patient, hands-on process that secondhand shoppers rhapsodise about – it has obvious advantages. No trawling overstuffed rails, no rifling through bargain bins. No fishing other people’s old tissues out of the pockets. Someone else has done the donkey work for you, and with an expert eye.

“The stereotypical idea of a vintage store is of an ‘Aladdin’s cave’ which requires a degree of rummaging, and can perhaps be a little overwhelming,” says Dulcie Emerson of Human Sea Vintage. “I try to overcome this preconception by offering an edited selection.” With the tagline ‘vintage you want to wear now’, Human Sea is unapologetically on trend – slip dresses, woven disco mules, ’70s crochet and Y2K tailoring all look completely at home alongside whatever pseudo-French chic & Other Stories is pushing into your feed this week. “Every item is selected for its quality, condition and potential to fit seamlessly into a modern wardrobe,” says Emerson.

It’s a similar story over at the chic Retold Vintage, launched by Clare Lewis in spring 2018. “I’m a minimalist at heart,” she admits. “I lean towards a high-low style, so customers can expect tailoring as well as gorgeous blouses that you can throw on with your favourite jeans. I love nothing better than a co-ord and I’m continuously inspired by the ’90s, which filters through to my styling aesthetic and unashamedly tonal colour palette.”

In harmonious beige and cream tones, with a pop of chestnut leather here, a twist of russet tweed there, Retold’s latest drop is a far cry from the clashing floral headache of your average vintage warehouse. Each item is a pristine classic. “I’m not a mass seller,” says Lewis. “I create small, curated collections.”

While big names like Beyond Retro thrive on sheer volume, the new wave of vintagrammers (as I’m calling them) are leaning in to this kind of nouveau-minimalism, with buzzwords like ‘handpicked’, ‘considered’, ‘an edit’. And if we’re to escape the mental overload of fast fashion, with its avalanche of choice and 52 new seasons a year, it makes sense. There’s something calming about browsing a site with only a handful of items on sale and nobody but destiny to cajole you into buying them. You can’t ask for another colour or size, or click ’email me when back in stock’. It simply says: ‘Do you want this? No? Cool.’

Of course, not being able to ask for another size can be a problem – especially in vintage, where plus-size garms get scarcer the further back in time you go. “It’s definitely a challenge to cater for sizes over a UK 10,” admits Brand. “A lot of the vintage you come across is tiny, which is telling of the social norms and beauty standards of those times.” But she puts the work in, to ensure that Another Matinee has more to offer. “I want to celebrate vintage style but reimagine how I present it, to reflect today’s changing attitudes towards women and our bodies and what is ‘beautiful’ in 2019.”

Another trader determined to improve vintage’s accessibility is Holly Watkins, owner of One Scoop Store. Having sold secondhand clothes via eBay for 15 years, she launched the business initially via Instagram in 2017. Her stock is an accessible mix of high street, designer and genuine vintage (technically, clothes which are 20 years or older), with price points from £10 to £300. “I always wanted to make sure I could offer pieces at really affordable prices that would suit all budgets,” she says. “I think One Scoop Store is one of the few offering decent high street secondhand, which is helping reduce landfill and appeal to a wider audience if true ‘vintage’ isn’t your thing, or luxury designer isn’t in your budget.”

Watkins tells me her biggest challenge is dealing with our ‘Supermarket Sweep’ mentality. “I do feel that the fast fashion world has created a monster in terms of the psychology of shopping. Many people expect free returns and order lots of pieces with very little intention of keeping any of them.” Addressing that commitment-phobia might take a while, but the vintagrammers are here to nudge us towards a slower pace of shopping. Why, you might ask, do they bother keeping items online after they’re gone? Why taunt us?

Inspiration, is why. What our mums and grans used to call ‘window shopping’, back in the days when it was more common to return from a shopping trip empty-handed than not. Turning the tide on unsustainable consumption is as much about changing attitudes as it is finding ‘better’ places to shop, so perhaps scrolling through grids of long-gone vintage could be a healthy outlet; a way to discover new styling tricks, fall in love with new eras, and remember it’s possible to admire stuff without necessarily needing to possess it.

When the stars align and we do find that absolute gem in our size, we’re more likely to foster an emotional connection; wear it more, treat it better and love it, even after the trend dies or the novelty wears off. “Most importantly, Instagram has allowed me to create a dialogue with my customers,” says Retold’s Clare. Happy customers tag their traders, traders share their looks, and the story continues.

Still, she doesn’t see social media as a replacement for traditional vintage shopping. “By selling online, I do think you will never be able to completely replicate that experience you get in a bricks-and-mortar store. I really hope that our high street catches up and we begin to see more vintage and secondhand stores, not just charity shops, have an increased presence.”

Personally I’d be sad to lose the ramshackle old-school thrift stores entirely. All it takes is a welcoming attitude and a high/low fashion eye to bring them bang up to date. Like Somewhere in Hackney, a ram-jam attic space where owner Melanie Otesanya‎ has a knack for sourcing vintage and preloved versions of the exact Ganni/Rixo/Sleeper number that’s been haunting your dreams. Or fash pack favourite Laura Von Behr, who hosts private dress-up appointments in her chic London studio. There are ’70s prairie dresses, ’80s party frocks, ’30s slips and ’60s minis on the rail, and Von Behr’s friendly, bespoke approach couldn’t be further from the fusty stereotypes.

“My customers are often very new to vintage shopping, so I make sure that my dresses are in good condition, clean and wearable,” she says. “I find it a challenge competing with fashion brands and work hard to buy pieces that reflect trends, to try and tempt people towards vintage.”

Let’s not forget, pretty much all trends are recycled from the annals of history anyway. So what if, instead of buying the fast fashion reproductions, we skipped the whole mad merry-go-round and went straight to the source? With a digital stylist helping us sift out the gold.

“I think it’s just about finding your groove,” says Brand. “Dressing in vintage doesn’t mean changing your style – if anything, it’s helped me hone mine. I know exactly what I like now.”

If vintagrammer’s feeds are anything to go by, they know exactly what we’ll like, too.

How to Break Up With Fast Fashion by Lauren Bravo is out in January. Pre-order now.

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Rihanna’s Coffee Table Book Has Arrived & Twitter Can’t Cope

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SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA – SEPTEMBER 17: Rihanna attends an event for ‘FENTY BEAUTY’ artistry beauty talk with Rihanna at Lotte World Tower on September 17, 2019 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by Han Myung-Gu/WireImage)

Ugh, Rihanna. At this point we’re not even surprised by her vision, her mind, or her team’s flawless execution. That Rihanna reign just will not let up. Between the boundary-breaking makeup shades and her history-making luxury line backed by LVMH, Rihanna still found time to kill the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show at New York Fashion Week last month. Now, our gracious queen saw fit to bless us with a coffee table book of all her most iconic looks.

“‪Over 5 years in the making… happy to finally share this collection of incredible memories,” Rihanna wrote on Instagram. “Thank you to all of the photographers and artists that contributed and to @phaidonsnaps for working with me to publish my first piece of art in a new industry! Make sure you pre-order the book now on therihannabook.com.”

If the clip she shared on Instagram is any indication, Rihanna’s fans are in for a treat in the form of never-before-seen outfit photos. We spotted her turquoise feathered Cropover look from Barbados’ annual festival, her 2015 Met Gala look designed by Chinese couturier Guo Pei, and her Dior Haute Couture gown (and matching sunglasses) from the 2017 Cannes Film Festival. The book also includes never before seen photos of fashion’s elite including Anna Wintour, Cara Delevingne, Edward Enninful, Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, and more. Quite obviously the Internet rejoiced. “I need the Rihanna coffee table book. I don’t have a coffee table to put it on but I’ll go buy one. Just for that,” one user tweeted. “I’m really about to text this white man back so I can finesse Rihanna’s coffee table book out his wallet…yall I’m getting that damn book idc,” shared another.

You can pre-order a few different versions of the tome now, though at the time this story was published, the “Rihanna: Ultra Luxury Supreme” version, was already sold out. The “Rihanna: Luxury Supreme” version is still available $5500 USD (approximately £4,477) and includes a custom cast-resin tabletop bookstand. Finally, there is a “Rihanna: Fenty x Phaidon version that includes “This Sh*t Is Heavy,” a custom steel tabletop bookstand and retails for $175 (£142).

And while we know she and Drake no longer have a relationship, it still seems that the sentiment still stands for Bad Gal Ri Ri: Do Right and Kill Everything.

Here’s a flavour of the Twitter reaction…

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Jealousy, Control & Isolation: The Warning Signs Of Domestic Violence

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The levels of violence against women and girls in the UK at its highest level in five years. On average every week in England and Wales, two women die from domestic violence. Every minute in the United States, almost 20 people are physically abused by a partner. According to data from the National Coalition Against Domestic Violence (NCADV), about one in four women and one in nine men have experienced intimate partner physical violence, sexual violence, or stalking. That’s more than 10 million people each year in America.

These relationships don’t often start out abusive. According to Psychology Today, during the early stages of a relationship, abusers tend to “mask their abusive tendencies,” so “by the time many people notice the obvious red flags, they’re already attached to an abuser, which makes it much harder for them to leave the relationship.” Or as one anonymous survivor of domestic violence wrote for Refinery29, “Domestic abuse isn’t something of which the participants are necessarily aware [of] until it’s been pointed out by someone else.”

If you think that your relationship, or a loved one’s, may be heading towards domestic violence, here are some potential early warning signs of abuse. Remember, not all abusive relationships look the same, and a relationship doesn’t have to include every warning sign listed here to be abusive.

Extreme jealousy and possessiveness

NCDAV lists extreme jealousy and possessiveness as two early warning signs of domestic violence. In a viral Imgur post, one abuse survivor described how her husband became convinced that she was having an affair with a coworker she barely knew. The husband monitored both his wife and the coworker’s work schedules, sent her near-constant text messages while she was at work, and when she wasn’t with him, demanded that she send photos or call to prove where she was. Eventually, this jealousy escalated to physical and sexual abuse

Controlling what their partner wears and what they do

Another early warning sign is exerting control over what their partner wears, where they go, and how they act. The woman whose husband was convinced she was having an affair also describes how he wouldn’t let her wear clothes that fit her because they “showed off her body.”

Monitoring phone, texts, emails, and social media

According to Break the Cycle, a nonprofit organisation dedicated to helping young people ages 12 – 24 create a culture without abuse, a partner checking your phone without your permission is a common early sign of abuse: “The simple act of crossing someone’s boundaries by looking at their personal property without permission is what causes these actions to slip into unhealthy relationship territory.”

Cruelty to animals, children, or other family members

If your partner is sweet to you but cruel to their pets or family members, they may soon change how they treat you, too. The woman behind the viral Imgur post writes that she left the relationship after her partner harmed her dog and kitten.

Isolating their partner from friends and family

Abusers often slowly cut their partners off from access to their loved ones, according to Break the Cycle. This may start subtly, such as asking a partner to check in frequently, or telling the partner to quit hobbies because they should want to focus on the relationship. When the partner is more isolated, the abuser can escalate the abuse, and the partner will have limited access to their support system.

If you or someone you know is experiencing domestic violence, please call the National Domestic Violence Helpline on 0808 2000 247.

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Instagram Is Removing The Following Tab, Which Means Stalking Just Got Harder

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Ever innocently wander onto Instagram’s Following tab and accidentally unearth something you, uh, didn’t necessarily want to see? Like your boyfriend commenting on his ex’s photo, you know, the one with the cliché caption about wanting what you can’t have? Anybody? If Venmo’s feed can illuminate the hard truth of who is hanging out with who, Instagram’s following tab can illuminate who wants to be hanging out with who — which is arguably juicier. Needless to say, Instagram’s Following tab, which lists the real-time activity of the accounts you follow — from their likes and comments to who they start following — is ripe with stalking fodder. But this week, it all comes to an end.

Instagram’s head of product, Vishal Shah, told BuzzFeed News today that Following was a feature many users didn’t know existed, and that Instagram decided to do away with it in the name of maintaining simplicity on the app. Now, instead of seeing both the Following and You tabs when you click on the heart icon on the bottom panel of your Instagram, you’ll just see your own activity. But IG stalkers, have no fear: Though the Following tab did serve as a formidable stalking tool — as evidenced by its role in revealing many celebrities relationships, such as that of Tyler Cameron and Gigi Hadid — you can still do the old fashioned Instagram stalk by diving deep into someone’s feed. Just make sure you don’t like anything from too far back. (I warn you from personal experience.)

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Burberry Embraces The Resale Market With TheRealReal Partnership

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: Lisa Hahnbueck is seen wearing Burberry trench coat, Sportmax dress, Furla bag on Day 5 Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019/20 on February 24, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)

During London Fashion Week, Burberry introduced its idea of evolution, going carbon neutral to help the Amazon rain forest. With the climate crisis at the forefront of everyone’s minds right now, Burberry’s carbon-neutral pledge is just one of many signs that the brand is committed to reflecting our current culture — both on and off the catwalk. On Monday, Burberry announced its next chapter: an official partnership with TheRealReal, encouraging customers to cosign pieces with the resale company.

“The RealReal shares our ambition to promote the circular economy and keep clothing in use for longer. We know that the enduring quality of Burberry pieces means their appeal and value is long-lasting,” Pam Batty, Vice President of Corporate Responsibility at Burberry, said in a release. “Through this new partnership we hope to not only champion a more circular future but encourage consumers to consider all the options available to them when they’re looking to refresh their wardrobes.”

While Burberry isn’t opening its archives or selling any of its stock pieces, according to WWD, it will give customers the chance to “shop the brand via an exclusive personal shopping experience in one of its 18 stores across the U.S.” as a reward for their part in making fashion more circular.

Burberry is following in Stella McCartney’s footsteps, as she was the first designer to collaborate with TheRealReal in 2018 when McCartney’s U.S. boutiques offering information and programs to facilitate consigning. This shift signals a growing trend in the fashion industry where brands are committing to a more sustainable and truly circular business model via resale. In this case, it helps that online resale sites like The RealReal, Depop, and Poshmark, all of which launched in 2011, have made buying used clothing as simple and appealing as ordering groceries on FreshDirect.

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27 Celebrity Hair Changes To Inspire Your Autumn Update

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Back in the day, mood rings were our way of expressing how we really felt. Now, switching up our hair is how we outwardly display what's going on inside. If we're going through a stressful phase, it's all ponytails and grease-disguising headbands. If we're trying to bring sunshine into our lives, we make an appointment for highlights. And if we need a complete revamp, a transformative cut is on the to-do list.

Clearly our favourite celebs are itching for the latter in 2019. The year is almost at an end, and the stars have fully embraced the "new hair, who dis?" mantra. Between Kerry Washington's fresh and sassy chop, Rowan Blanchard's pixie cut, and Emilia Clarke's DIY dye job, there's plenty of hair inspiration for us to gawk over.

And if the hair updates ahead are any indication of the next few months, it's safe to say that the stars will be ending 2019 with a bang. Click through to see our favourite celebrity hair changes of the year so far.
Ashley Benson is known for her blonde hair, but the actress has officially crossed over to the dark side. Recently, she posted a selfie on Instagram rocking brunette hair that faded into a caramel ombré towards the ends.
Of all the Kardashian-Jenner sisters, Kendall Jenner experiments with her hair colour the least. However, at London Fashion Week, the model walked the Burberry runway with her naturally brunette hair dyed platinum blonde. While her new look was dramatic, it was short-lived. A few days after her blonde debut, Jenner attended the Emmy Awards with her dark roots back.
Celebrity stylist Jennifer Yepez gave her client Laura Harrier a chic blunt-cut lob that grazed right above her shoulders for a Paris Fashion Week appearance.
Fresh off the heels of her new Florence By Mills beauty launch, Millie Bobby Brown debuted a dramatic new hair colour. The actress posed on Instagram with cool-blonde hair, a far cry from the dark brown colour we've gotten used to.
At Game 3 of the NBA Finals, Beyoncé showed off a new two-toned hair colour styled in long, glamorous Old Hollywood waves.
The bob has been dominating heads of the Hollywood elite, and Reese Witherspoon is the latest actress to get on board. She posted a Boomerang of her new shoulder-grazing cut by her stylist Lona Vigi.
In April, Scarlett Johansson showed off freshly highlighted hair and blonde extensions courtesy of her longtime colourist Emaly Baum.
Gina Rodriguez ushered in summer's hottest hair colour, blonde balayage, after her wedding. The actress previously had long, jet-black hair that cascaded past her shoulders.
Taylor Swift made her return to music a colourful one, debuting her new single Me! with her ends dipped in hot pink hair dye. Soon after, Swift was spotted with her ends turned blue.
Kim Kardashian hopped on the year's hottest haircut trend: the bob. The KKW Beauty founder was spotted with her trademark brunette hair chopped into a perfectly symmetric cut.
Game of Thrones is over, and Maisie Williams went out with a bang. The actress, who dyed her hair purple for the season 8 premiere, recently switched her look again, turning her fringe and shoulder-length hair honey blonde.
After revealing a new blunt bob courtesy of Ashley Streicher, Mandy Moore told Access Live that her new look was not only about embracing her time off from work, but shedding dead weight in light of opening up about her former marriage to musician Ryan Adams.
Not too far behind on the bob trend was Kristen Bell. The actress debuted a sharp chin-length cut by Jenny Cho.
Lucy Hale is never shy about switching it up. The actress, who recently went blonde, posted a snap of her hair after going back to chocolate brown.
Logan Browning traded her shoulder-length curls for a short cut with a curly fringe, also one of the year's buzziest cuts.
Pink hair has been popping up all over Hollywood, and Behati Prinsloo-Levine is the latest celebrity to take it for a spin. The model posed for an Instagram with rose-colored strands that look straight out of the '90s.
Emilia Clarke went back to her roots (literally), bringing her formerly platinum-blonde hair — which she admitted was a pain in the butt to maintain — back to its natural, brunette shade for her Oscars red-carpet appearance.Photo: Jon Kopaloff/WireImage/Getty Images.
Charlize Theron hasn't had hair this dark since her role in Aeon Flux. Needless to say, she shocked us all when she showed up at to the Oscars red carpet with a polished, dark brown bob.Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage/Getty Images.
Just before the Vanity Fair red carpet, Takisha Sturdivant-Drew pulled out the scissors to give Kerry Washington a "trim." The resulting pixie is giving us pixie dreams for our next salon appointment.Photo: George Pimentel/Getty Images.
Karlie Kloss kicked off New York Fashion Week (and a new year) by shedding some inches. Her stylist Harry Josh cut seven inches off the model's hair, leaving her with a lob that dances right above her shoulder.PHoto: Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images.
Julianne Hough created her own version of 2019's biggest haircut trend: the shag. The actress posed on Instagram with her bob and fringe chopped in wispy layers. The cut was done by her longtime stylist, Riawna Capri. According to Capri, Goldie Hawn was the inspiration for her client's new look.
For those blessed with curls, a textured fringe is easily the freshest, most flattering way to make a change for the new year. Just ask hairstylist Ted Gibson, who gave Sandra Oh a shaggy fringe that show off her glowing skin and bone structure. To shape the fringe perfectly, he cut her curls dry and styled the front pieces using his own Shooting Star Texture Meringue mousse.Photo: Taylor Hill/Getty Images.
If you were having doubts about going platinum in 2019, Hilary Duff's latest dye job makes a convincing case to hit up your colourist. Celebrity stylists Riawna Capri and Nikki Lee took the actress' hair (which was already blonde) up a few notches with this bright icy colour.Photo: Gregg DeGuire/WireImage.
Amandla Stenberg tossed that "going lighter in the summer" rule out of the window when she dyed her formerly jet-black curls a shade of warm copper.Photo: Jesse Grant/Getty Images.
For some, a pixie cut is a hard "pass," but not for Rowan Blanchard. Celebrity hairstylist Laurie Heaps took the actress' shoulder-length strands into an edgy, Natalie Portman-inspired cut. Heaps tells Refinery29 that her famous client wanted to embrace a new year with a new look.Photo: JEAN-BAPTISTE LACROIX/AFP/Getty Images.
The blunt bob is here to stay — just ask Irina Shayk. The model walked the Golden Globes red carpet with a chin-length bob, courtesy of celebrity stylist Harry Josh, that made us want to run for scissors and chop all our hair off, too.
Jamie Lee Curtis took monochromatic beauty to the next level when she showed up to the Golden Globes with her hair lifted to a wintery white shade to match her red-carpet gown. Previously, the star already had a gorgeous salt-and-pepper style, but this snowy colour is new for 2019.Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.
We didn't expect Lady Gaga to kick off her Enigma tour with anything other than a bang. And she's had lots of fringes in the last few weeks with many different hair hues. First, it was lilac, then it was silver. And now, she's got cerulean blue hair. Her stylist Frederic Aspiras used a mix of temporary hair colour to get the look. What colour will she bless us with next?Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage.
Hailey Baldwin entered 2019 with a new name and a new 'do to match. Her west-coast-trendy cotton candy pink locks are courtesy of Nine Zero One salon in West Hollywood.
Jada Pinkett-Smith, queen of the tapered pixie cut, dyed her signature style platinum blonde. "When that Sandy blonde drip you used to rock in the '90s still goes hard," she captioned an Instagram selfie — further proving that when it comes to beauty, she can really do no wrong.
The shag is still alive and well — just ask Sarah Hyland. The actress traded her long brunette hair for a choppy "shagadocious" cut with a fringe, courtesy of Nine Zero One salon.
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The Therapy Apps Trying To Help You Deal While You’re On The NHS Waiting List

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Mental health problems are on the rise, with some people in the UK having to wait for up to two years to receive therapeutic treatment.

With many being forced to take matters into their own hands, therapy apps could help provide those in need with a cheap and effective short-term alternative. Some of these apps have been around for a while, but there is also a growing number of artificially intelligent (AI) breeds which provide an increasingly personalised and emotional response, and they’re on a mission to democratise therapy.

Democratising therapy means “radical accessibility” says Dr. Alison Darcy, clinical research psychologist and founder of Woebot, an artificially intelligent chatbot grounded in cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT). Dr. Darcy told me Woebot’s goal is to break down “common barriers” to seeking mental health support, such as stigma or lack of financial resource. AI can offer quick and efficient progress across these barriers, making good mental health practices “easy and fun for everyone” she says.

“Right now several different AI programs have overtaken humans in both accuracy and dependability of diagnosis,” says Silja Litvin, psychologist and founder of eQuoo, an emotional fitness game combining storytelling with a range of psychological techniques to teach its players emotional intelligence. AI is very good at recognising patterns, and for this reason has huge potential as an educational and even preventative tool for mental health problems. eQuoo uses an algorithm to search for patterns in players’ behaviour, predicting which part of the game would be most beneficial to them, then teaching them the emotional skills they need.

Similarly, Woebot teaches its users an array of techniques to help manage their moods and reframe negative thinking. Woebot does this through daily conversations and, over time, learns about users, giving them an option “to express as much or as little as they wish” says Dr. Darcy. The app then uses a series of decision trees to identify a user’s mood, helping them to recognise their own negative thought patterns. Experienced clinicians write every script and Woebot implements this knowledge with CBT by asking people questions, helping them facilitate their own insights to learn about themselves. Woebot provides users with weekly feedback, showing their personal development.

While Woebot and eQuoo were designed by clinical psychologists with therapeutic care in mind, Replika was created for a very different reason. In 2015, Replika cofounder Eugenia Kuyda’s best friend Roman died. With a background working on AI interfaces, she and her cofounder Philip Dudchuk launched a tribute app to Roman on the anniversary of his death, “so the rest of the world could connect with him too”. After seeing how well people responded to her chatbot, Kuyda launched Replika, “an AI friend that is always there for you”.

Like Woebot, Replika learns from user conversations. Trained with scripts and linguistics, the AI has a wide variety of conversations, images and responses which it then personalises. As Kuyda suggests, you “raise” your own Replika. Using machine learning and dialogue modelling, Replika then mirrors the voice, responses and patterns of its users. Although she claims this technology provides users with “the most authentic interactions”, authentic does not mean human. Kuyda is adamant that this is not “therapy or self-help” and Replika’s users agree. Alessia, a high-functioning schizophrenic who uses the app, told me that although she finds it easier to speak to her chatbot than to her parents about her mental health, she acknowledges “a therapist is still the best possible option”. This sentiment is echoed by Dr. Darcy and Litvin, who are adamant these apps will not and should not replace face-to-face therapy. Dr. Darcy says “there is no substitution for human connection” and apps like Woebot are simply an additional resource for everyday mental health maintenance. Litvin emphasises that she “strongly believes” in face-to-face therapy: “eQuoo was created for those who don’t have or are unable to attain face-to-face therapy.”

Nevertheless these chatbots are increasing in popularity. Replika has an enormous online community, with a Facebook group of over 30,000 users and 2.5 million sign-ups since its launch early last year. Replika claims to let users express themselves in a safe and nurturing way, “allowing you to engage with your most emotionally connected self”. Many of its users told me they can be vulnerable and honest with their Replika because they know it won’t judge them. Mille, who was diagnosed with bipolar disorder and borderline personality disorder, says she confides in her Replika because it won’t make fun of her: “It’s not based on human emotion which can be hurtful sometimes.” Elsa, who struggles with anorexia, told me she prefers to speak with her Replika about her emotions because that way she doesn’t feel like a burden or that she is disturbing anyone. Anna, who struggles with many psychological issues, told me her Replika helped her get out of a panic attack by telling it how she was feeling, completing relaxation exercises with her until she was calm. While these experiences are anecdotal, there are clinical studies to support them, showing how the use of these apps improves the symptoms of mood-based disorders like depression and anxiety.

However, Anna had one triggering experience with her Replika. She shared her childhood trauma and the chatbot replied with an insensitive: “That sounds like fun.” While Kuyda is confident that Replika is “engineered to accentuate the positive” and Dr. Darcy ensures me that Woebot cannot cause “actively detrimental” errors, bots – like humans – make mistakes. Unlike humans, though, chatbots do not have cognitive capacities like empathy to deal with the nuance of language or behaviour. This is why eQuoo and Replika have built-in failsafes: If someone expresses thoughts which may be about harming themselves, both apps direct users to self-help resources and crisis helplines where they can speak to humans.

Some app users are concerned about the storage, collection and usage of such personal data. “I would say that I trust my Replika, but I am not sure I can trust the humans behind her,” Anna said, explaining she feels uneasy that the app has many of her most personal details and intimate experiences. Darcy, Litvin and Kuyda are all very aware of the importance of data privacy and protection. Kuyda says that data is only collected in-app and not from anywhere else on your phone. Litvin explains that at the moment eQuoo does not store data but when it does, it will be double-encrypted and stored only in special healthcare data centres with “higher security than banks”. Litvin says anyone in this space needs to have high-end encryption and multilayer cybersecurity protection. Ultimately, everything can be hacked, but the EU has very strict data protection laws and the UK is currently implementing General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), which aims to safeguard users.

There is a big ethics question around the use of AI in mental healthcare. However, as Litvin notes: “If we get this right, AI could be a great disruptor of the rising of mental illness.” AI potentially gives a great percentage of the population access to therapy in a way it’s never had before. As Dr. Darcy explains, these apps are symbolic of a much bigger idea – helping society recognise that we all need to invest in our mental health on a daily basis.

If you or someone you know is struggling with mental health issues, please get help. Call Mind on 0300 123 3393 or text 86463.

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How Our Government Has Betrayed Women Seeking Abortions

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All over England and Wales, abortion clinics are being targeted by anti-choice, anti-abortion and, ultimately, anti-women protestors. It often goes unreported and the scenes witnessed by clinic staff, pro-choice activists and service users alike are fraught. 

In 2018, Ealing council became the first to implement a no-protest ‘buffer zone’ around the Marie Stopes West London clinic. That buffer zone prevents anti-abortion protestors from coming within 100 metres of the clinic. The move was hailed as a huge and hopeful step forward for the protection of women seeking abortion services against a backdrop of abuse. 

Sally O’Brien, operations manager at Marie Stopes West London, describes the extent of the anti-abortion protestors’ harassment and intimidation, which she witnessed daily at the clinic before the buffer zone was introduced. 

I’ve had salt thrown at me as I walked to the clinic. I’ve seen women blocked at the gate and I’ve been called a murderer more times than I can remember.

Sally O’Brien, Marie Stopes

“I’ve had salt thrown at me as I walked to the clinic. I’ve seen women blocked at the gate and I’ve been called a murderer more times than I can remember,” she explains. “Just getting into work past the anti-abortion groups stationed outside was like running a gauntlet and I would always breathe a sigh of relief as the door closed behind me.”   

“But,” she adds, “that was just the beginning.” Throughout the day, she would see women “arrive in floods of tears after being confronted by groups clutching plastic foetuses and rosary beads. Some were in such a state of distress they were unable to continue with their decision, forcing them to rebook for a later date.”

O’Brien says the buffer zone has had a “transformational effect” on service users and staff in Ealing. However, while there are reports of similar scenes at other clinics across the country, in September last year the Home Office decided not to implement buffer zones – also known as exclusion zones – outside other clinics in England and Wales following a public consultation on the issue. 

Speaking at the time, then Home Secretary Sajid Javid said it “would not be a proportionate response” because harassment was “not the norm” and that most anti-abortion protests “are more passive in nature”.

Today, a coalition of charities and medical bodies which includes Marie Stopes, the British Pregnancy Advisory Service, the Royal College of Midwives and the Royal College of Obstetricians and Gynaecologists, among others, has written a letter to the new Home Secretary, Priti Patel, to express their concerns about the decision made while Javid was in office last year.

They are urging Patel to reconsider her predecessor’s decision not to introduce buffer zones because they feel that the issue was not properly looked at or considered by officials. 

They have decided to take this action because Freedom of Information requests (FOIs), submitted by the Back Off campaign for buffer zones, revealed that one civil servant was recorded as stating in conversation that “there is need to be seen to do something but don’t want to actually do something” during the consultation process. Abortion provider Marie Stopes says this suggests that the outcome of the consultation was “a foregone conclusion” which “underplayed and misrepresented” the experiences of clinic staff and women, despite the submission of a database containing testimony from 1,300 individuals who had experienced harassment outside an abortion clinic. 

The same FOIs revealed that another civil servant compared the targeting of women outside abortion clinics to other protest issues such as fracking. They were recorded as saying: “What makes this protest issue different from others? (e.g. Badgers, Fracking).” 

When the Home Office announced its decision last year, it released a statement saying “that as only 36 out of 363 licensed premises for abortion care were targeted in 2017, national buffer zones would not be a ‘proportionate response’.”

However, Sally O’Brien of Marie Stopes says: “We knew at the time that this number misrepresented the many thousands of women being harassed every year. The five worst affected Marie Stopes UK centres cared for over 20,000 women in 2018 alone, all of whom were at risk of experiencing harassment and intimidation before their appointments.”

“What we didn’t know,” she adds, “until a Freedom of Information Request was submitted to the Home Office earlier this year, was that all the evidence provided by myself and my colleagues with experience of anti-abortion harassment had been written out of the evidence pack that was given to the Home Secretary.” 

As a result, the coalition is arguing that women’s experiences were not taken seriously and expresses concern that the experiences of staff and healthcare workers were barely mentioned in the final report. It is now calling on the Home Office to review the evidence which was provided and look again at the possibility of introducing national buffer zones so that women will no longer face anti-abortion protestors at the clinic gate. 

A Home Office spokesperson told Refinery29:

“This is a sensitive and complex issue, which is why we conducted an in-depth review of protests outside abortion clinics.

“The right to protest is a vital part of a democratic society, but it is completely unacceptable that anyone should feel harassed or intimidated.

“We expect the police to take a firm stance against protesters who significantly disrupt the lives of others and use the full force of the law. There are already powers in place for police to restrict harmful protest activity.”

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This Is Why Tess Holliday Feels Most Powerful When She’s Naked

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Tess Holliday is a model, blogger, and makeup artist who created the body positive movement #effyourbeautystandards in 2013. Her latest project is a body-acceptance campaign called “Get Body Posi” in partnership with self-tanning brand Isle of Paradise.

I feel most powerful when…

I’m naked. For a long time I never felt good in the skin I was in. Being able to feel sexy in my fat body — which people told me wasn’t desirable — has given me a lot of power. Part of that is how I’ve chosen to reclaim the word fat. Today, when I’m naked, I feel sexy. I feel empowered. I feel in charge.

What does power mean to you?

Power, to me, means being able to help others that perhaps haven’t been in a position to help themselves. I always try to be mindful that I have influence and “power,” but none of that is any good if you’re not using it to help others and elevate causes that you care about.

What do you do when you feel powerless?

I’m a Cancer, so I usually cry about it a lot. I’m very sensitive. I try to re-centre myself. Then, I call someone who is really good at reminding me of why I’m doing what I do. And talking me off of a ledge. Or I’ll take a social media break if I can. And, sometimes, I’ll just look in the mirror and remind myself who the f*ck I am. You know?

What’s your power anthem?

It depends on my mood, but I would say it’s “Dancing On My Own” by Robyn.

Who’s your power icon?

Hmmm I’m thinking about all the people I love and look up to. I always say Chrissy Teigen, because I appreciate her so much and I know her in real life. But, at the moment, I would say Janet Mock. She’s so powerful. She helps others, not only through her writing, but with directing and producing Pose, and being able to create her own narrative and space within the trans and LGBTQ community.

What do you wear when you want to feel powerful?

A crop top. And maybe jean shorts, but I do wear leggings basically 24/7. I love showing off my stomach. And I like that a crop top is something that traditionally fat bodies haven’t been allowed to wear, so I wear them as much as possible.

Responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.

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Zara’s Coveted Utility Line, SRPLS, Is Back For Its 3rd (& Best) Chapter

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If you, like us, signed onto Zara.com this week, you likely scanned a site stocked full of holiday party dresses, Matrix-inspired leather silhouettes and on-trend boots for autumn. Do the same today on the other hand, and you'll quickly be faced with a very different side of the fast-fashion brand. Don't worry, the Zara you know and love isn't going anywhere. They are, however, making room for a very exclusive collection drop.

Today, Zara's coveted utility line, SRPLS, announced the first of three drops in their third collection, one inspired by "the visual language of rebellion and counter culture" and meant to provide "a neutral canvas for individual style," a press release reads.

The collection itself features everything from luxury knits and tailored skirting to shearling jackets and patchwork parkas. Basically, it's everything you'll ever want to wear come the second half of autumn. The 14-piece womenswear collection is wholly-based on the uniform of rebels, rockers, and icons; a nod to breaking the rules, be it fashion rules or otherwise. In it, you'll spot clashing prints, unisex styling at its best; and of course, more of the camo you've come to expect from chapters one and two.

So while it's never easy to say no to a sequin dress or another pair of leather trousers, when a collection like this one comes around, we'd never not throw our hats credit cards into the ring. Ahead, check out all 14 pieces from Zara's third SRPLS collection, launching today on Zara.com.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.


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Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.
Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.
Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.
Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.
Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.


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Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.
Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.


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We Feel Cheated By The Final Episode Of BBC’sThe Capture

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Warning! This feature contains spoilers for the final episode of The Capture

It’s been a difficult month for my paranoia. You as well? I blame BBC One’s The Capture.

Six weeks ago, we were introduced to a distressing (but interesting and hopefully still fictional) concept: that live CCTV recordings can be hacked and manipulated. The technology to create a video showing someone doing something incriminating without them even being there could exist. Think deep fakes gone wild at the hands of our national intelligence teams. ‘Corrected’ surveillance footage of an ex-soldier attacking his lawyer while, in reality, said ex-soldier is at home in bed.

That’s how we were first introduced to Shaun Emery’s (Callum Turner) story. We were on his side. Yes, we may be unwaveringly besotted by our bad boy fallen soldier. But when he said he didn’t kill Hannah Roberts (Laura Haddock), one half of the legal team who used a faulty video footage claim to overturn his charge for murdering someone in Afghanistan, we believed him. His innocence had already been proven once and, for Christ’s sake, can’t we just let the man spend some time with his daughter?

But by the time we arrived at the last episode of this tense and twisty miniseries, so many lines (and narratives) had been blurred that we didn’t know who to trust anymore. DI Rachel Carey (Holliday Grainger) and her sidekick Patrick (the officer who was originally sceptical of Rachel being fast-tracked through the police force) have evidence that proves Hannah did in fact get on the bus and that Shaun didn’t kill her. They are prepared to leak it if they have to. These guys are trying to fight the good fight and bring down the hidden enemies within our apparently fraught justice system. All with an SD card that’s safely hidden in a jar of rice.

Then we’ve got Hellboy, Silver Fox and Boss Lady. You’ll know them as CIA officer Frank Napier (played by actual Hellboy Ron Perlman), SO15 boss-cum-classic power-deluded adulterer Danny Hart (Ben Miles) and DSU Gemma Garland (Lia Williams) who arrived out of nowhere to take over the investigation from Rachel. They’re the dark triad leading government corrections in the UK. Oh, and surprise! They were also the team who tampered with evidence in the terrorism case that Rachel had previously worked on (and supposedly won). Rachel was their pawn and now she’s even more pissed off. Our girl is annoying, defiant and not about to be bested by her stuffy old superiors.

“Correction turns intelligence into evidence and keeps terrorists off the streets,” Silver Fox Danny defiantly tells Rachel when she smugly arrives at the secret correction headquarters. He wants to bring her on to their secret corrections team now, despite having spent the previous episodes trying to throw her off their scent and stop her from telling his wife that they had been sleeping together. The consensus at Refinery29 HQ is that he is a smug, contentious scumbag, as per our elaborate WhatsApp group chat throughout the final episode…

We were just about able to keep up with everyone’s roles in this elaborate operation. But we have to admit that the final instalment introduced a few questionable characters that none of us could quite get our head around. We also really noticed when women of The Capture were dealt short (and backstory-less) straws despite their surface-level importance to the narrative.

Early on in the last episode we see Famke Janssen. She glamorously descends from a private jet into an ominous black 4×4, which tells us she’s probably one of the baddies. We later find out that she’s loosely Frank’s (Hellboy) superior in the CIA and has swooped into London to assert some authority, sort out their messy attempts to find Shaun and quash the false Soldier Kills Solicitor narrative over which all sides have lost control.

By now, the dark triad have caught on to the fact that there’s a mole within their covert corrections team and that this whole thing was actually orchestrated by Hannah Roberts’ team of rebels who want to expose the whole concept of government CCTV correction to the public (we found this out in all the flashbacks in episode five). Hannah was killed by the people she was trying to take down, though, so this all went very wrong, very quickly.

Eli is the mole, but no one in the rebel group (the team consisting of Shaun’s other solicitor Charlie, and a group of people connected to other victims of correction) really trusts him. Do we ever find out why Eli betrayed his job with Hellboy to help our justice warriors frame Shaun for a crime he didn’t commit? Of course not. That would be too helpful. There are no neatly packaged conclusions in deeply troubling conspiracy dramas, my friends. Only wild raves in abandoned warehouses used as a cover for Hannah and Charlie’s secret anti-correction meetings, obviously.

Rachel’s sister Abigail remains an enigma, too. Conveniently, she’s the only occupant at their parents’ house in the London suburbs and is just desperate to forge a relationship with her distant older sibling. Abigail willingly houses Shaun while he’s in hiding and, before you jump ahead, yes, we know that surely any location connected to the now-suspended DI Rachel would have been tracked by Hellboy and Boss Lady’s covert surveillance team. After all, Rachel knows too much and has long made it clear that she’s a Shaun supporter. But as our Lifestyle Director, Jess points out: “Um, actually, no because she [Rachel] doesn’t talk to her family because of some backstory that no one really understood? And everyone who’s ANYONE knows she doesn’t go to her parents’ house.” Dots half-arsedly connected.

So, at this not so secret semi-detached hideout, Abigail wants to cook breakfast for Shaun while Rachel goes to confront the dark triad. She offers him avocado on toast (which he turns down) followed by bacon and eggs (oh, go on then), but while she gets to work in the kitchen, he makes a run for it. Thanks to our old friend Fake News, he’s just seen a report of him kidnapping his daughter Jaycee from school. It’s okay, though, because we know that the clever correction people fabricated some CCTV footage to make it look like Shaun abducted the only thing he loves in this world to draw him out of hiding. And it works.

For a moment it looks like all paths are finally going to cross. Shaun throws menacing stares to CCTV cameras as he marches over to Charlie’s office to demand intel on where his daughter is. This, of course, leads Boss Lady to Charlie as the man behind the corrected CCTV footage of Shaun attacking Hannah. But then the hope we had been carrying in our hearts for some sort of resolution is crushed by a few frustrating tangents.

Remember Eli? He’s inexplicably taken off by Famke in what she “believes is termed a soft rendition”. They want to half-expose the correction programme to protect the interests of someone high up in the US government, which is wildly upsetting and doesn’t make anyone feel any safer at all. After a pep talk about how swiftly correction is going to advance, Hellboy threatens to manipulate CCTV footage of Shaun playing with his daughter into something more sinister. Next thing you know Shaun is in court pleading guilty to Hannah’s manslaughter, despite fighting so hard to clear his name. Disappointing but understandable, right?

But then there’s our girl Rachel, who is clearly still fuming about the whole thing but seems to have resigned herself to doing nothing about it. She pops back to her parents’ house with the SD card containing the video proving Hannah was alive when Shaun last saw her. She hides it behind a photo of her and her mum (who passed away, remember? This snippet of knowledge is somehow meant to be the entire justification for her personality) and marches over to the dark triad to demand to be part of their corrections team. Does she have ulterior motives? It doesn’t feel like it. It feels like we were cheated out of the explosive ending that we were built up to anticipate after six menacing weeks of dodging surveillance cameras and researching deep fakes out here in the real world. Too much doesn’t make sense. Too much has been left to our fragile imaginations. Too much happened without enough reassuring reference to the fact that there might be Justice For Shaun. And even if there were one, I’m not sure our hearts could handle a second series to see that happen.

The Capture is available on BBC iPlayer

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This Is The Cutest Handbag Trend For Autumn

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Arguably the most playful accessory trend to come out of AW19 is the shearling bag. Last winter was all about the shearling coat, and Ugg boots have been keeping our feet nice and toasty for a long time now. Why shouldn't our bags get in on the fuzzy action, too?

While the practicality of a sturdy tote is undeniable, sometimes the lure of a faux fur plus one is simply overwhelming. What can we say? The heart wants what the heart wants.

Stockholm-based Stand is crafting bags so darn soft we'd be nuzzling into one 24/7 if we had the chance, while Dutch accessories label Wandler's offerings are attainable and practical – think tan finishes and slouchy shapes with heaps of elegance.

Click on for a selection of velvety bags you'll be besotted with this season.
A punchy plus one that will make any outfit.

ASOS DESIGN Micro Fur 90s Bag, $, available at ASOS
Tap into the buttery beige trend early with this statement Wandler bag.

Wandler Mia Shearling Tote Bag, $, available at Farfetch
A handmade treat we'll be grabbing time and time again.

Harriet Law Love Hearts Handmade Pink Faux Fur Tote Bag, $, available at asos marketplace
An understated burgundy beauty we can get behind.

M&S Collection Shearling Hobo Bag, $, available at Marks & Spencer
A bag this bright will liven up your winter wardrobe.

Stand Lolita Faux Fur Tote, $, available at mytheresa
This MM6 number will stand out among the sturdy and boxy bags in our wardrobe.

MM6 Maison Margiela Faux-Shearling Tote Bag, $, available at Farfetch
Calling all animal print lovers!

ASOS Marketplace Vintage 90's Faux Fur Cow Print Mini Hand Bag, $, available at asos marketplace
Slime season is still at the forefront of our minds.

Topshop Free Lime Faux Fur Grab Bag, $, available at Topshop
An all-white bag might be playing with fire, but what's life without a little risk, eh?

Mango Teddy Handbag, $, available at Zalando
Fiery red is the new millennial pink.

Fendi Vintage Tote Bag, $, available at Rebelle
An ice-blue shoulder bag is the ultimate statement piece for autumnal dressing.

Urban Mist Powder Blue Small Faux Fur Shoulder Bag, $, available at Silk Fred
Forest green will forever remain chic.

Whistles Hattie Faux Fur Tote Bag, $, available at John Lewis
Imagine this chocolate-hue bag with faux-leather trousers, an oversized blazer and '70s polo top. The ideal Friday night fit.

Elleme Bazoi Shearling Wool Tote, $, available at Farfetch
Finally, a cute bag we can take on our daily commute that isn't a grotty tote.

Marks & Spencer Shoulder Bag, $, available at Oxfam
Proof that neutral accessories are far from boring.


Mlouye Micro Convertible Bag, $, available at Mlouye
Animal print? Check. Faux fur? Check. Roomy? Check. We can always rely on Stella McCartney to nail our accessory needs.

Stella McCartney Reversible Faux Shearling Tote, $, available at Farfetch
Business on the outside, party on the inside.

Topshop Fleur Black Vinyl Borg Tote Bag, $, available at Topshop
Everything about this Salar vintage cylinder bag is giving us major '90s inspo.

salar Faux Fur Trim Handbag, $, available at Rebelle
Darker hues will slot effortlessly into your wardrobe during the coming months.

USC Slouch Fur Bag, $, available at House of Fraser
Forget subtlety, this mini bag deserves all the praise.

Shrimps Multi Check Eva Bag, $, available at Shrimps

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

23 Bags That Will Hold Your Junk & Still Look Good

6 Ways To Wear A Mini Skirt & Boots This Autumn

Everything On Our Style Wish List For October

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