Before we were obsessed with lobs, lace-front wigs, and gem-coloured hair, there were perms. Curly perms, to be precise; the dramatically teased, extra-wavy hair that occupied the heads of your mom, grandma, and celebrities like Cher, and the look of choice for period films like Grease and Flashdance.
Given today's trends, you might think that the curly perm is best reserved for your mom's #TBT photos — but it's actually alive and well, and better-looking than ever before. For straight hair types looking for natural-looking texture without wielding a wave wand every morning, it might even be your best bet. Nunzio Saviano, stylist and owner of Nunzio Saviano Salon, says of the 2019 version of the chemical treatment, "The solutions used to activate the curl are less harsh, and stylists can modify the results to be more modern."
Mallory Granrath, master stylist and perm specialist at Pure Organic Salon in Nashville, says that the frizziness of yesteryear's perms was caused by harsh chemicals like ammonia, mixed with ammonium thioglycolate (Elle Woods taught us). She takes a more holistic approach to the styling method and utilises formulas free of harsh ingredients. "Times are changing, and you can still achieve great curly texture without all the bad stuff," she tells us.
The results of a curly perm (or body wave) can be the difference between straight hair and beach waves that you don't have to braid, scrunch, or singe with heat to achieve. Ahead, we rounded up everything there is to know about testing out the treatment — along with photo inspiration you'll want to copy.
Essentially, a body wave perm works by chemically altering straight hair to create natural-looking curls. "If you have straight, fine, or limp hair that doesn't hold a natural wave, you're the perfect candidate for a perm," Saviano says.
Like any chemical hair service, a curly perm can compromise the health of your hair. Granrath tells us that clients with heavily highlighted or over-processed strands should avoid the service altogether. "I've turned people with over-processed hair away because chemically altering the texture of already-damaged hair can cause breakage," she says.
If your hair is in good condition, and you've decided to bite the body-wave bullet, be prepared to dedicate up to four hours for your treatment depending on the length of your hair. While you're in the salon chair, you and your stylist will choose the appropriate perm rod size based on the results you're seeking. "This is hands down the most important step," Granrath says.
The reason is simple: The wrong-sized rods can leave you with curls that are too tight or loose. If you're after tight spirals, smaller rods should be used. If loose S-waves are more your thing, then bigger rods should be a part of the process. Your stylist may also customise your hair by alternating the size of the rods placed throughout your head.
Granrath starts every curly perm treatment by "detoxing" the hair to remove minerals left behind by environmental pollution and silicones. "When unwanted minerals are on the hair, it can clash with the perm solution and change the results," she says.
To make sure her client's strands are as clean as possible, she uses the Curl Partner Wellness Remedy from Malibu C, then follows up with a bond-repairing treatment prior to the perming process to maintain the health of the hair. "I always recommend using a protein treatment ahead of your perm," she says. "This will ensure that your strands are as strong as possible leading up to them being chemically altered."
After your hair is prepped, it'll be carefully wrapped around rods and completely saturated with perm solution. Depending on your hair type, the perming liquid can be left on for up to 30 minutes. Granrath swears by Organic Colour System Think Curl solution, which is ammonia-free and gentle for most hair textures.
When your hair is done processing, it is neutralised — while still in rods — for five additional minutes. Once the neutralising step is complete, your hair is rinsed, rods are removed, and you're ready to style.
You should leave the shampoo bowl stoked, thanks to your newfound waves. Granrath tells us that, at this point, she now treats her permed client like any other curly-haired client. "Once the pattern is activated, I follow up with Innersense Quiet Calm Curl Control and the I Create Hold gel," she says. "It's important to use products that will replenish moisture and keep the curl secure after a perm."
After you complete the perm process at the salon, the real work begins. "Upkeep is crucial because your hair will grow differently and will require special care," Granrath says. Because of your change in texture, expect to get regular shaping haircuts to add structure and body to your hair. "I recommend getting a restructuring cut every six to eight weeks, and getting a perm touch-up twice a year."
In addition to salon upkeep, Granrath suggests making bi-weekly at-home protein treatment s part of your regular routine. She also recommends swapping your hairbrush for a wide-tooth comb to maintain your hair on a daily basis. "Brushes can be harsh on permed hair and break up the curl pattern," she says.
But be warned: Committing to a perm is committing to a look. And once your strands are chemically curly, it'll be hard to smooth them out without causing damage. "Trying to blow-dry or flat-iron permed hair will stress your strands out," Granrath says. "If you want to revert back to straight hair, I recommend letting it grow out or committing to a short cut if you want to keep your hair healthy."
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