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This Is The Secret To Being A Successful Working Mum

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On paper I have it all: I’m married to a supportive man, I'm mum to two children, and in the past six years I’ve managed to double my income. And while I’ve spent the past 15 years working as a financial expert, the top question I’ve been receiving lately from the many driven young women in my community has nothing to do with money. Instead, they want to know: “How do you manage the demands of a full-time career and be a good mum?”

They aren’t convinced that they, too, can have a partner and a career and kids. They read Lean In and all the modern career bibles, and yet they’re still left with doubts about how to happily and successfully grow a career and family at the same time.

How do you have time to do everything? How do you afford it? When do you sleep?

My answers are: I outsource a lot. I try to earn a lot of money. I take naps when I can.

But that’s not the whole of it.

My ability (most days) to support and show up for my career and family is thanks to a set of beliefs I established years ago, well before I became a mother, or even before I met my husband. Some of these beliefs — about the need for independence and self-protection — date back to the days of my mum’s stern warnings and the threats about strange men in our neighbourhood who would steal me if I got too close. (I was five and she was probably right.) But I started making professional and financial moves long before I decided to have kids, and it set me up for success during this busy, sometimes challenging, always rewarding phase of my life.

When I hear from these young women who want to know how to do it all, I offer them the following advice. While every woman will have different solutions, these are ten principles that guide and empower me to be a fulfilled, working mum.

Farnoosh Torabi is a financial expert, host of the award-winning podcast So Money, and bestselling author of multiple books.

Independence, financial and otherwise, means having your own money. Not your parents’ money. Not your spouse’s money. Someone else can pledge to support you and the kids, but what if they become unemployed or mismanage the money? What if you want out of the marriage? Having your own money — in your own bank account — provides a cushion for you and your family or an out when you need it most.

I was raised with a lot of fear and skepticism, which had an enormous impact on the way I run my life. I don’t trust that things will “just work out.” And I believe no one cares more about my money than me. For this, I can thank my mother, Sheida Torabi, an Iranian immigrant, who had me when she was just 19. Her parenting M.O. was to instil fear in me so I would stay out of harm’s way. No talking to strangers, no staying out past 9. When I was 19, she straight up told me that she would never bail me out of any financial crisis. And while she never went quite so far as to say that a man is not a plan, I inferred as much when watching her argue with my dad over money. In the end, I became the type of person who assumed a great deal of personal responsibility and accountability for the things I wanted in life.

But more than just taking personal responsibility for earning your own income, we need both men and women taking charge of their financial destiny if we want to make the world a better place. Mums who support their families financially, whether as primary breadwinners or with the help of a partner, are terrific role models for children (and other adults, too).

If you’re hell-bent on maintaining your career post kids, surrounding yourself with people who support your ambitions is of the utmost importance, and it should start with your partner. We often focus on trying to find an “equal” who checks off boxes we think matter, like education, career status, salary, and politics. But it's better to verify: Does this person show evidence of being truly excited by my career pursuits and financial ambitions? Will this person be my biggest professional advocate even when I’m doubting my abilities after having kids? Will this person voluntarily change nappies? (Worth asking, based on feedback about boyfriends at a recent gathering of young women.)

When I hear mothers justify leaving the workforce, they usually say something like, “I wasn’t in love with my career.” And it’s true: Feeling indifference toward your job makes motherhood seem easier and more rewarding.

If you’re not in love with your career, now — before you have kids — is the time to make bold moves toward that goal. Even if you’re in a relationship and it means moving across the country and being long-distance for a while. Even if you don’t feel super qualified for the promotion. Even if you are scared about quitting your job to start that business. Prioritise yourself. Make the sort of career moves that can help you grow your skills, improve your pay, and make you a greater asset in the workplace. This will help to anchor your positioning in your career after you become a parent, and will reward you with the seniority, experience, and a desire to stay working...because you will love it too much.

Working mums often find our salary competes with the cost of childcare. And after all the quick maths is said and done, some conclude that it’s best to quit and be the primary caregiver. When you look at what some women are spending on full-time childcare a year, staying at home can seem like a good option.

But when you are absent from the workforce, you lose much more than just the cash. You also lose the ability to invest in your pension and more. Childcare — and its costs — are temporary. Though you may end up losing money in the short term, you are bound to make more money in the future if you keep working. So think of childcare as an investment. It might not pay off right away, but over time your whole family will reap the dividends.

Just take it off the table. Don’t even entertain the possibility of giving up your career. Sure, you will need a break. But always have a plan to get back in the game — and soon. Make this your life’s framework. A non-negotiable.

This mindset can seem limiting. But, to the contrary, I have found it to be extremely liberating. When opting out is not an option for you, you will be persuaded to make choices and follow a path that supports your life. This includes seeking employers that are family-friendly (or starting that business because it’s the best way to control your time). You may even become more motivated to save and pay off debt to better support a future where you can, in fact, afford to be a mum and have a career at the same time, as opposed to feeling stuck in a single lane.

It’s your job to craft a team that supports your ambitions. This can include but is not limited to: your partner, your parents, your in-laws, a nanny or daycare provider, your boss, babysitters, helpful friends and neighbours who can pick up your kids if you are running late, and colleagues at work who can cover for you in a pinch. Build your tribe and be loyal to them. Get really good at asking for help, because you will need it. You can have it all — so long as you aren’t doing it all.

Guess what? You are a grown woman. You don’t have to breastfeed if you don’t want to. Whether you choose to breastfeed or not can have a major impact on your career, your livelihood, and even your relationship with your partner. I’m not going to get into the debate over breastfeeding here, but I will tell you that every mum is allowed to choose for herself. I wish that I had a female advocate — other than my mum — who said that I was no less a parent for choosing to formula-feed my son.

Formula-feeding meant that my husband was able to help feed our baby day and night. I had more free time to manage the house, take care of myself (recover), and work. But it was still a tough call to make. I felt like a bad mother at times. But let me tell you, absolutely nobody has the right to judge you over your decision to breastfeed or not. Choosing a path that serves your entire family is more than okay. It’s wise parenting.

I discovered within the first few months of having my first baby just how little attention is given to a postpartum mother’s needs. Sometimes your best and only advocate will be you. Be sure to stand up for yourself and do what you need to recover and feel whole. There is no doubt that after kids, you will have less time for yourself. And that is why it’s important to build in consistent (or at least somewhat regular) time to unwind, reconnect, or just catch up on sleep.

It’s very easy to slip into mummy martyrdom and feel guilty for making time to grab a glass of wine with a friend or take a yoga class during your lunch break. But if you don’t take a break every once in a while, you will crack. Remember that you’re a wife, a friend, and your own person in addition to being a mum and employee.

Unhappy mothers create unhappy children. Judith Warner, author of the book Perfect Madness, wrote that it’s not working mums or stay-at-home mums that most women cite as the cause of their mum-related issues. Instead, it comes down to happiness. If mum is happy, the kids are happy. So if you are a working mum and love your job, shout it from the rooftops. Let your children see the benefits of having a mum who works and is proud of her choice. You’ll be leading by example for the next generation of young women who aim to take on the world.

Some days (okay, a lot of days) will be super messy and things will fall apart. I’m often tired and desperate for a shower, and I have been known to feed my kids cereal for dinner every once in a while — with the television on. And sure, my son occasionally asks, “Mum, do you have to work today?” But then other days, life and all of its demands align like magic. You’ll realise that you can move a meeting to walk your son to school and even have a little time before work to meet a friend for coffee. You’ll earn that raise just when your growing family needs a bigger home, and thanks to your promotion, you can now command a more flexible schedule. Things have a way of working out, but only if you insist upon it and go after it unapologetically. And don’t forget to squeeze in some naps!

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Zoe Church: Hollywood's Latest Religious Obsession

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When actor Chris Pratt went on The Late Show a couple weeks ago, he casually name-dropped "the Daniel Fast," a 21-day diet based on the Bible, which he said he learned about through his pastor at Zoe Church. This comment about his church and the rest of the conversation about his faith got Ellen Page's attention.

"Oh. K. Um. But his church is infamously anti lgbtq so maybe address that too?" Page wrote on Twitter, referring to Hillsong, another celebrity-friendly megachurch, which Pratt used to attend. Two days later, she tweeted: "If you are a famous actor and you belong to an organization that hates a certain group of people, don’t be surprised if someone simply wonders why it’s not addressed. Being anti LGBTQ is wrong, there aren’t two sides. The damage it causes is severe."

Pratt responded to Page's claims in an Instagram story, saying, "Nothing could be further from the truth. I go to a church that opens their doors to absolutely everyone." According to Zoe Church's website, the church "is a place where our doors are open to people of all backgrounds — regardless of where they are at in their journeys — and we hope all feel welcomed, comfortable and loved." Still, this news has lots of people wondering: What's the deal with Zoe Church and why is it so controversial? Here's what you need to know about Zoe Church, the Hillsong-adjacent, Hollywood hipster church that Pratt and others flock to — plus, what we can glean about the church's political stance.

Refinery29 has reached out to Zoe Church and its founder and pastor, Chad Veach, for comment, but did not hear back by the time of publication.

It's pronounced "zo-AY" not "ZOH-ee."

The name "Zoe" comes from the Greek translation of the word, which means "abundant life," according to the Zoe Church website. The pronunciation is more "like, be-yon-SAY," Veach, told the New York Times. The whole intent of the church is to "infuse" this Zoe or life into people through "engaging, powerful worship and Biblical truth," a statement on the website says.

Services are held in Los Angeles.

With its Hollywood following and hipster aesthetic, Zoe Church has a distinctly Los Angeles vibe. The first Zoe Church services took place at the club 1 Oak, but the space was too small for the vibrant services. Now, there are seven different services held on Sunday, at different locations across the city: five take place at the El Rey Theatre on Wilshire, and two are held at a middle school in the San Fernando Valley. There are also plans to extend the service to East Los Angeles.

It was founded by Chad Veach.

In 2014, a charismatic pastor named Chad Veach moved from Seattle to Los Angeles, and a year later founded Zoe Church, modelled after the megachurch Hillsong, where he used to preach. Veach's family was very involved in ministry growing up: his father ran a church, and his siblings went on to become pastors, too. He's written a few books, one of which is about raising his daughter who has a rare brain condition. Veach is also tight with Justin Bieber; the pair met through a mutual megachurch friend, and Veach even went on tour with Bieber briefly.

Lots of celebrities are fans.

Beyond Bieber and Pratt, Katherine Schwarzenegger, Hailey Baldwin, Ashley Benson, and Maria Shriver, and Selena Gomez have all supported Zoe Church. Kourtney Kardashian also currently follows Veach on Instagram.

Their politics are questionable.

When Page called out Pratt for supporting Zoe, it brought several concerns about the church's stance on LGBTQ issues to the forefront. In the past, Veach has been cagey about Zoe Church's political views, telling the New York Times that he's "a Bible guy," when asked about abortion rights. "Maybe, just what we grew up in, it’s, like, you don’t bring politics into church. We’re here to preach good news. We’re here to bring hope to humanity. We’re here to talk about God. This is not the place for a political agenda," he said.

When it comes to "lifestyle stuff," Veach told The Christian Post in a 2014 interview that he lets Jesus deal with it. (You might recall that Hillsong's leader, Brian Houston, infamously said: "We do not affirm a gay lifestyle.") However, in 2017, Veach served as the executive producer for a film about people who "have struggled with 'sexual brokenness,'" which included "same-sex attraction."

Refinery29 has reached out to Zoe Church and its founder and pastor, Chad Veach, for comment several times via email and telephone, but did not hear back by the time of publication.

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Things You Should Say To Your Single 30-Something Friend

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"What it all comes down to
Is that everything's gonna be fine, fine, fine
'Cause I've got one hand in my pocket
And the other one is giving a high five"
-Alanis Morissette, "Hand In My Pocket", 1995

After describing at some length a list of phrases and questions that should no longer be said to single women in 2019, I realise I’ve kind of left us hanging, haven’t I? How rude. I should complete the lecture and offer a list of things you absolutely can and should say to single women at your leisure and convenience. It’s only fair.

When you’re single, you hear things you don’t want to hear all the time. If I get one more " So, are you seeeeing anybodyyyyy?" I’ll likely cry into my cabernet. Not because I’m sad, mind you, but more because I’m disappointed in how unoriginal that question is. But I understand that most people are probably not trying to offend or annoy me. They’re just trying to make casual conversation and engage in social niceties. But there are overlooked social niceties that I wish single women heard more often.

It's really hard to understand a void of something if you’ve never been made aware of that void existing. For example, if you’re in your 30s and you’ve been partnered since your 20s, greetings! My name is Shani and I am coming to you live from the void with a bunch of things I never hear that I wish I heard all the time.

You’re invited

I could paint this with a broad stroke and say it applies to everything from casual dinner catch-ups to weekend getaways, but really what I’m talking about are gatherings of people who are coupled or have kids. And I don’t care how angry this makes the commenter who won’t stop going on about my dusty appliances. I am targeting the fun, buoyant gatherings of families I’m never invited to because I don’t have a family and why would a woman without kids want to attend a "kid" event? It couldn’t be that a group of people she likes are having fun and she’s not, heavens no.

People in couples invite other people in couples to do stuff. People with kids invite other people with kids to do stuff. Single people don’t get invited to either kind of stuff. I mention this not out of spite, but out of longing. I have Instagram. I see.

Single people don’t get invited to either kind of stuff. I mention this not out of spite, but out of longing. I have Instagram. I see.

Dinner tables can have odd numbers. I don’t mind if the diner next to me is wearing a bib and there is no lobster present. What I mind is feeling like I don’t belong, because I don’t have a partner or a child.

Yes, please continue to make all sorts of plans with your single friends, in groups or otherwise. If you are single, please continue to make plans with your single friends who understand your perspective because they’re living it, too. But if you are not single, please start inviting your single friends to the events you never do. The events where they never pop into your mind – and know that it’s okay that they didn’t pop into your mind before. We’re all just doing our best out here.

I like the park. I like picnics. I like kid-friendly beer halls where dads wear their children like binoculars. But more than anything I like you, I like your kids, and I think single people can and should hang with coupled people and their tiny, squirmy people all the time. My friend Anna once invited me to hang out at the local swingset with her and her kid and it was the best invitation I’ve ever received. Be someone’s Anna.

How are you feeling?

Being sick sucks. Being sick while single suuuuuuuucks. In general feeling like nobody cares if you’re okay sucks, too. Check in on your single friends when they’re sick, or when they’re having a hard time. You don’t have to go over there and expose yourself to infectants, just a text to say, "Hey, you feeling any better?" will do fine. We are asked how we are less often than people who are partnered, it’s just the nature of things — there are simply fewer people present in our apartments. We still enjoy being present on the "give a shit" lists of others.

Congratulations

This is a neat one. For all adults, celebrations of awesome stuff that’s happened to us really dwindle after graduation. If you don’t get engaged, get married, get pregnant or somehow have a baby, that number is even fewer. And while I don’t think that each of us needs to be constantly celebrated, once in a while might be nice.

We need not invent stuff to celebrate, I don’t think that’s my point. While it might feel like a personal accomplishment that I made it to Friday without frisbee’ing my laptop out of my apartment window, I don’t think that’s something we should order a cake for. Or is it?

Single adults don’t find themselves at the centre of celebrations... kind of ever. But we find ourselves at the centre of other people’s celebrations pretty much always. I certainly don’t want fewer wonderful things to happen to my friends and family, I just often wonder if we mightn't balance things out a bit? Otherwise you’ll be able to see the fireworks from my 40th birthday extravaganza from space, just sayin'.

If something good happens to a single you love, be it a promotion, a new apartment, Thursday, anything — congratulate them.

If something good happens to a single you love, be it a promotion, a new apartment, Thursday, anything — congratulate them. Celebrate that person for a moment and make them feel special. There’s literally no downside to it.

You’re doing a great job

Three days ago my friend Savaria said this to me and dammit if I didn’t almost fall out of my chair. I think this applies to all of us, single or otherwise, but as a woman who’s been single since the iPhone 3G, I can tell you that praise of this kind is a rarity outside of the workplace — and it really shouldn't be. Why should our work efforts be praised and our personal life efforts be seen as supposed-tos? Tell the friend who just Kondo’d her kitchen or the cousin who hit a SoulCycle milestone (I don’t know what they’re called) that she’s doing a great job. Because she is.

If you’re a not-single person reading this, you likely know and love a single person or two and would never, [extreme Outkast voice] ever ever want them to feel left out, unwanted or forgotten. And know that I present these conversational suggestions not as a scold, just as a reminder. That void I mentioned? If you’re not in it, you forget about it, real quick.

And these reminders apply to us singles, too — I will never skip an opportunity to assemble my own team of Avengers. Check in on your friends, ladies! Make plans with them, remind yourselves that you exist in each other’s thoughts — and that those thoughts involve more than just wondering whether or not we’re seeing anybody.

I think the running theme across everything I wish people of all relationship statuses said to each other more often are reminders that they matter to someone. Single people don’t hear these reminders nearly as often as we hear "How’s dating going?" and that’s fucking gross.

Your phone is currently sitting where you can see it. It might even be in your hand right now. You are thumbs away from making someone, anyone feel great because you’re thinking of them. I’ve done my best to share knowledge on what can and cannot be said to my single sistren. If it’s tough to remember or you get flustered by work or the next Democrat to announce a presidential candidacy, remember, it’s easy: just start with "Hi".

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Clear Mascara Is The Essential Your Makeup Kit Is Missing

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Beyoncé has given us a lot over the years — Dangerously In Love, the 2009 Inaugural Ball performance for the Obamas, and a few iconic Vogue covers that will forever sit on our coffee tables. Through all that, she's also given us some serious hair and makeup inspiration, and we take a lot of notes from Bey's beauty handbook. So, when she posted an up-close selfie of a subtle cat-eye with bare lashes, our only thought was: Is this what we're doing now?

Typically, we consider our ultra-black mascara a desert-island essential. But what Queen Bey does, we follow. And you'll see that there are other beauty lovers who are also skipping the mascara and going au natural — even if they're doing a full-on eye look. But if you want to go bare, you don't have to go completely naked. According to the pros, clear mascara can make all the difference in curling and defining your lashes without adding too much drama.

Ahead, find out which clear mascaras makeup artists are using for the naked lash look.

"I love this 2-in-1 gel because it grooms brows and holds them in place. It can also be used to lengthen and define lashes for a natural, fresh look. Plus, the formula has aloe vera, which conditions the hair as well." — Timothy MacKay, professional makeup artist



The Body Shop Brow & Lash Gel, $10, available at The Body Shop

"My favourite clear mascara is from Anastasia Beverly Hills. It gives natural volume to the lashes on those days that you don't want to wear mascara. It's fantastic for holding your brows in place, too." — Anton Khachaturian, celebrity makeup artist at Exclusive Artists



Anastasia Beverly Hills Clear Brow Gel, $23, available at Cult Beauty

"This clear mascara comes with a curved brush that curls and separates as it defines the lashes. I also use this product as a brow gel. The best way to apply clear mascara is to use thin coats, and make sure the first coat is completely dry before applying the next — you have to build slowly." — T. Cooper, celebrity makeup artist



COVERGIRL Professional Natural Lash Mascara in Clear, $4.53, available at Amazon

"I actually remember when I was very young I wanted a clear mascara, because I just wanted something to hold the curl on my lashes with zero clumping. Everyone looked at me like I was nuts. What I ended up doing was using clear brow gel. My favourite in a pinch is this one from Bobbi Brown." — Cassandra Garcia, Bobbi Brown lead editorial makeup artist



Bobbi Brown Waterproof Brow Shaper, $19, available at Bobbi Brown

"I think the best clear mascara has to be Great Lash by Maybelline. Clear mascara needs to be flexible yet durable. This formula has been a go-to since its creation. It provides separation with zero buildup.” — Justin Tyme, celebrity makeup artist



Maybelline Great Lash Mascara Clear, $6.89, available at Amazon

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Thandie Newton Shares Her Experience With Hair Discrimination

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Getting sent to detention for wearing braids at school. Facing military discharge for wearing locs. Institutional discrimination based on natural hairstyles has long been an issue in need of address — and it's something that Thandie Newton has experienced firsthand.

The actress first shared her story in an interview with friend and longtime makeup artist Kay Montano that appeared on NBC News back in 2012. “I remember when I was seven at my convent school, it was school photo day so all the kids came looking their best. Mum did my hair in 20 or so cornrows with green wooden beads on each end to match my school uniform. The nuns were appalled, they wouldn’t let me have my picture taken,” she said. “I felt embarrassed, disappointed, ashamed. Can you imagine how my mum must have felt?"

So when the City of New York recently stepped up as a leader in banning such discrimination, (no matter how overdue), it prompted a celebratory tweet from Newton yesterday. “Woohoo!!!!!!! Take THAT the nuns at my primary school !! I wasn’t permitted to have my photo taken on School Photo Day because Mum had given me beautiful rows of braids the night before - specifically to make me look my best. Now hair discrimination is illegal in NYC. Bliss x,” she wrote.

The tweet garnered overwhelming support of both Newton and the policy change, which classifies bias based on hair texture or style as racially discriminatory and offers protection to Black New Yorkers who have faced disciplinary action at work and in schools for simply wearing natural hair styles.

Thought the vindication may be too little, too late for Newton herself, it's primed to prompt a much-needed sea change for systemic discrimination that will help younger generations — a win certainly not lost on the actress. As NBC News reported, a forward-thinking Newton transitioned to natural hair nearly a decade ago because she "didn’t want [her] daughters to judge their beautiful curls." Years later, the world is finally starting to catch up.

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What Are Those White Spots On My Nails — & How Do I Get Rid Of Them?

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A mysterious bruise is enough to turn anyone into a hypochondriac on the spot. From that misshapen black-and-blue splotch on your shin to the unexplained white flecks on your fingernails — go down the Google path, and you're likely to be worrying about an underlying medical condition all day.

While we can't help you with the lower-leg shiner (which probably came from a painful run-in with your coffee table), we can give you a little insight on the latter: nail bruising. We asked the pros to help us suss out the root cause of those teeny-tiny white speckles — and what we can do to get rid of them.

What causes white spots?

From a medical standpoint, dermatologist Ellen Marmur, MD, tells us that you can tell a lot about a person's health by examining their nail beds. "White spots may be a result of health issues, such as an allergy, fungal infections, mineral deficiencies, or a side effect from medication," she says. "Most commonly, though, they're a consequence of mistreatment of the nails." In fact, your weekly manicures may be the issue: Dr. Marmur tells us that polish can chemically damage the nails, leading to discolouration and divots. Improper or rough gel or acrylic removal is another common cause of bruising.

Dermatologist Lamees Hamdan, MD, the founder and CEO of holistic skin-care brand Shiffa, agrees that finding white spots on your nails usually means you've been too rough with them. "I find that white dots are usually due to an injury to the nail bed and shouldn’t be a cause for alarm," she explains. "That is, unless you have them a lot — that indicates that you need to be more careful with your nails to avoid bruising."

Though it's likely that your bruise is, well, just a bruise that will fade with time and healing, it's never a bad idea to consult your doctor if you're worried to confirm what's going on.

What's the most effective treatment plan?

Of course, your prescribed treatment and prevention plan will depend on the root cause. "If the spots are a result of an allergic reaction, you will need to find out what could be causing it, and then avoid the ingredient," Dr. Hamdan says. "In most cases, common allergens are hiding in the nail polish, or the polish remover. If the cause is mineral deficiencies, you should consider a multivitamin with zinc and calcium. If it’s a fungal infection, like or psoriasis or eczema, that should be treated by a doctor."

If you suspect your spots may be related to a shoddy gel or acrylic removal, you may want to pay closer attention to your salon. "It's important that your manicurist removes your gel polish properly," says nail pro and Olive & June founder Sarah Gibson Tuttle. "This includes allowing the acetone to soak into the nail for at least ten minutes before trying to remove the gel. Then polish should be lifted up, and not filed down to the bare nail plate."

Unfortunately for those loyal to the long-lasting gel manicure, if you're worried about white marks, it may be safer to lay off the gel polish altogether. "For damage prevention, it's best to skip gels for a while and allow the nail to grow out," says Tuttle. "In the meantime, try applying cuticle oil to encourage healthy nail growth, and help them grow as quickly as possible."

So, if you're finding little white dots on your fingernails (or toenails, for that matter), your best bet is to keep an eye on them, give the nail beds some extra TLC, and, if you're concerned, have your doc take a peek at your next appointment. Even if the best cure is to skip the cow nails for a few weeks, your healthier nails will be so worth it in the long run.

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In Franca: Chaos & Creation, The Fashion Industry Remembers A Legend

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It's difficult to talk about late Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani without mentioning the many lives she touched, and how she impacted them, too. Sozzani, who died in 2016 at age 66 of lung cancer, was a force beyond measure — in the fashion industry and real life. In fact, she was known for blurring the two, like an artist smudging lead on the page. It's why, in Franca: Chaos & Creation, a coffee table book dedicated to the editrix, so many of Sozzani's colleagues write so lovingly and extensively about their shared memories.

In her three-decade tenure, Sozzani tackled subjects like drug abuse, diversity, domestic violence, and more. Her diversity issue, for example, dubbed the Black Issue, sells for $2,500 (£1,880) today. This book, by her son Francisco Carrozzini and printed via Assouline, costs $250. And by the weight and breadth of it — showcasing Sozzani's most iconic photos in one place, is worth every penny. (It's 408 pages, 300 of which are illustrations.) The portfolio features mementos from fashion veterans like photographer Miles Aldridge, Linda Evangelista, Steven Meisel, and many more.

But it's longtime friend and colleague Anna Wintour, whose daughter Bee Shaffer married Sozzani's son Francesco last year, who shared the most touching message. "Franca, as far as I could tell, was a one-woman show. She trusted her artists implicitly," she wrote. "Trust, and be yourself. That was the enduring lesson Franca taught me, and it is her courage I most remember to this day. In fact, she is vivid in my memory, alive in my mind and my heart: clever, stylish, beautiful, never self-pitying, full of irreverence and wit and life." Sozzani and Wintour were hired to lead their respective magazines in the same week.

What's more, proceeds from the sale of the book will fund the Franca Sozzani Chair in Preventive Genomics at Harvard Medical School to support research accelerating the transformation of medicine from reactive sick care to proactive health preservation. In addition to her dedication to fashion journalism, Sozzani led a most charitable life; she was a United Nations Goodwill Ambassador, awarded the Legion of Honor by former French president Nicolas Sarkozy, worked with Convivo in the fight against HIV/AIDs, and so, so much more.

In the slideshow ahead, you'll see just a glimpse into Franca Sozzani's most lived and thoughtful life — a woman who didn't just have it all, but did it all, too.

Franca: Chaos & Creation by Assouline is out now, via Assouline.

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The Best Netflix Movies Based On True Stories

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Did you notice that lots of the movies nominated for the 2019 Academy Awards had something in common: They're based on true stories. Even the scandalous, power-infused lesbian love triangle in The Favourite may have actually happened. Of the five nominees for Best Actor, only one (Bradley Cooper's Jackson Maine) is fictional.

Clearly, Hollywood loves to take events that have already happened, then make them a bit more cinematic more funny, entertaining or artful than they actually were. These movies are like real life, just better.

Netflix has a tremendous offering of films based on true stories too. Some of them cover absolutely extraordinary moments in human history, others mine ordinary lives for inspiration, like three-time Oscar winner Roma.

True stories make for great movies – but let's just be happy that not all movies have to be based on real life. Otherwise where would we go to escape?

The Most Hated Woman in America(2017)

In her heyday in the 1960s, Madalyn Murray O'Hair (Melissa Leo) was known as the most hated woman in America. The face of the modern atheist movement, she sued the Baltimore City Public School System under the assertion that it was unconstitutional for her son to participate in mandatory bible readings. She was an outspoken public figure — until she suddenly disappeared.

Lion(2017)

Saroo (Dev Patel) is raised in Australia by white parents, but he still vaguely remembers his biological family, with whom he lived until he was five. Saroo was separated from his family when he got lost on a train, then eventually wound up in an orphanage. Lion tells the unbelievable – but totally true — story of how the real Saroo tracked down his village (and family) using Google Maps.

Seoul Searching(2016)

It's 1986, it's summer, and a group of Korean kids from all over the world have just arrived in Seoul for a kind of Korean birthright trip. Seoul Searching is like if a John Hughes movie met Euro Trip met some thought-provoking conversations about identity. Director Benson Lee attended this camp as a kid and based the movie on his experiences.

Brain on Fire(2018)

If you're fascinated by the human mind, then this movie is for you. When journalist Susannah Cahalan's (Chloë Grace Moretz) sense of reality begins to fracture, people think she's suffering from a mental illness. But she's not – she actually has a very rare auto-immune disease. Brain on Fire is like an elongated episode of your favourite medical drama.

First They Killed My Father(2017)

Angelina Jolie garnered acclaim for directing this seriously harrowing adaptation of Loung Ung's 2000 memoir, in which she recounts living in Cambodia after the Khmer Rouge took power and launched their genocidal campaign. Ung was only 5 years old when the regime began; in the ensuing years, she would be separated from her family and trained to be a child soldier.

Roma(2018)

Oscar winner Alfonso Cuarón delivers a vivid, emotional and deeply personal portrait of a domestic worker's journey set against domestic and political turmoil in 1970s Mexico. The director drew on his own experiences growing up to tell the story but it boils down to a moving story of two women – Cleo (Yalitza Aparicio) and her employer Sofía (Marina De Tavira). Try not to cry.

Becoming Jane(2007)

Jane Austen is responsible for some of culture's most enduring love stories, like Elizabeth Bennet and Mr Darcy. But did she ever live such a love story herself? Becoming Jane argues that Jane's (Anne Hathaway) romance with a lawyer, Tom Lefroy (James McAvoy), gives her the knowledge necessary to write her novels.

Schindler's List(1993)

Schindler's List is a difficult movie to watch, but a necessary one. Oskar Schindler, played by Liam Neeson, saved the lives of 1,200 Jews during WWII by employing them in his factory.

Milk(2008)

Harvey Milk (Sean Penn) was the first openly gay person to hold public office in the United States. This biopic tracks his journey from closeted businessman to activist ingratiated in the queer community of San Francisco's Castro district.

Barry(2016)

Meet Barack Obama in 1981, when he was just a wandering college kid with dreams. The movie delves into his time at Columbia and his formative first serious relationship (with a woman who's not Michelle).

The Social Network (2010)

David Fincher's telling of Facebook's embryonic stages warrants a rewatch in light of recent events. It's both brutal and funny at times, but Aaron Sorkin's screenplay (plus a brilliant cast including Jesse Eisenberg, Andrew Garfield and yes, Justin Timberlake) lets us in on the macro events that would change society and the microcosm of the friends whose relationships it tore apart.

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Margot Robbie's Makeup Artist Shares Her Skin Prep Routine (All 40 Minutes Of It)

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Makeup artist Pati Dubroff is the mastermind behind hundreds of iconic red carpet beauty looks: Margot Robbie's bright blue BAFTAs eyeliner, Priyanka Chopra's glittery Oscars afterparty eyeshadow... It's safe to say she knows a thing or two about getting makeup to last way past midnight, but it isn't all to do with having amazing skin or shelling out on expensive formulas.

Here's everything we learned about how to make foundation, eyeliner, lipstick and more stay put when we spoke to the pro herself.

Skin prep makes all the difference

"I’ll spend a solid 40 minutes on the skin before putting any makeup on," said Pati, who loves the ReFa facial roller and the ZIIP Nano Current Skincare Device. Of course, not all of us have that long to get ready in the morning (or a beauty budget that big), so Pati suggests even 10 or 15 minutes using your fingertips will make for a great base. R29 also recommends trying a crystal face roller alongside a facial oil or moisturiser.

"Facial massage brings more oxygen to the surface of the skin and makes it look much more plump," continued Pati. "Depending on the person and their needs, I massage upwards from the jaw, never down, and then sculpt the cheekbones. I also work on the eye area because that puffiness can be moved away temporarily." After a facial massage, Pati applies a hydrating, priming moisturiser like Augustinus Bader The Cream on just the perimeter of the face. "Moisturiser is important under makeup. It really helps with the vitality of the skin." Avoid the centre of the face if you find your makeup tends to move around.

Apply primer strategically

When it comes to primer, most of us apply it all over to stop the dreaded 3pm shine, but according to Pati, it works better when concentrated to certain areas on the face. "After moisturiser I always primer in the centre of the face where clients tend to get oilier. The reason I use a primer is because I then don't have to use much powder, which looks too heavy. Primer holds the foundation in these oilier places and anything you can do to not put too much stuff on the skin is great."

Aim for the T-zone (nose and forehead) and cheeks, too. "Suqqu Nude Wear Liquid Foundation is my go-to and I've been using it for 12 years because the formulas are the closest thing to looking like skin," added Pati. "I use the IT Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe Complexion Perfection Brush #7 to buff it into the skin." R29 also rates Bobbi Brown Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation SPF 15 and MAC Cosmetics Studio Fix Fluid Foundation SPF 15 for their wide range of shades.

Take your time

"The key is waiting 'til the end of the makeup to apply powder. If you try powdering right away, you end up having to put on too much because your foundation may look too shiny when first applied. If you let it sit, you allow makeup time to settle, and you'll see which areas need powder and which don’t. If you're super oily and your makeup slips off, I'd recommend using blotting papers, too." And if your skin is on the drier side? "After foundation, sometimes I go back in with moisturiser, using my fingertips on the high points. It acts like a highlighter without the shimmer, keeps makeup in place and just looks like juicy, plump skin."

Layering is key

"If I want blush to last, I apply both cream and powder blush," revealed Pati. "Go in with cream blush first, then apply a light dusting of loose powder (whatever is left on your brush) and top it up with some powder blush. Right now, I love Surratt, Cle de Peau and Stila Convertible Colour, and I always apply them with a fan brush."

How to stop eyeliner from smudging

Getting eyeliner to stay put can be no mean feat, but Pati suggests ditching the eye cream or moisturiser beforehand. "Don’t use moisturiser around your eyes before you apply eyeliner because it can smudge. Some people’s eyelids are very oily so, again, a primer can help as a barrier to help both eyeliner and mascara to stay where it is. Avoid eye cream close to the lid unless your eyes are very dry."

Hydrated lips make for longer-lasting lipstick

"Lips being hydrated helps a lot," said Pati, who, unlike other makeup artists, doesn't use lip brushes. "I like to apply lipstick by pressing it into the lip with my fingertips. I find it lasts longer this way than with a thicker coat and I think it looks so much more flattering. Sometimes I even do different tones if I want to give the lips a shape, for example something lighter or darker in the centre."

How to do a clean, smoky eye

Pati's top tip for ensuring a smoky eye looks just as perfect hours later? "I will never go higher than the crease. Always stop there and keep eyeliner and eyeshadow tight and focussed to the lash line. Firstly, apply a little kohl or gel pencil and smudge this in. The more things are softened and buffed, the more eye-opening and professional it looks. Also put a lighter shade in the centre of the lid to open everything up and take cues from your hair colour. For example, if you're blonde, start with taupes and camel colours. If you’re brunette, choose chocolate and espresso."

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"It'll Be Fine, It's Just One Line": What It's Like To Relapse At 26

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There’s a scene in the film Beautiful Boy, a startlingly accurate portrayal of addiction starring Timothée Chalamet and Steve Carell, where a father discovers that his son is using drugs again. "But why? " he shouts. "Why? Why? Why?" It is an atavistic cry, directed half at his strung-out son, half at the gods.

In a film that ached with familiarity, this particular scene was a little too close to the bone. It was one that played out, word for word, in my father’s kitchen in the autumn of 2017. I remember most the poignancy of his tartan pyjamas. The impartial thrum of the dishwasher.

My answer then was the same as Chalamet’s.

"I don’t know."

It is said that around 2% of UK women suffer from drug dependence. As a recovering addict and alcoholic, I am one of them. I gave myself something of a head-start: I was first drunk at 12, stoned at 13 and by the age of 15, was regularly using hard drugs. I spent my late teens and early 20s courting oblivion by way of booze, coke, ketamine, MDMA, 2C-B, benzodiazepines and whatever else I could lay my hands on. By the age of 24, when my world was the size of a room, a phone number and a bin filled with bottles and baggies, I couldn’t take any more, and checked into rehab. I was released 28 days later, utterly determined never to touch a drink or drug again. And that should have been that. Except it wasn’t – it isn’t for the vast majority of those moving towards recovery.

First of all, it must be said that relapse is by no means inevitable. There are many addicts and alcoholics who manage to get sober and stay sober on their first attempt. But it is thought that more than two-thirds relapse within a year. "We’re talking about a learned behaviour," says Karen Tyrell, spokesperson for the charity Addaction. "People who have developed a dependence on a substance have, over a period of months or years, developed a cycle of habitual, repeated responses. When something stressful occurs, their automatic response is to use that substance. They have to go through a process of retraining their brain, and learning to respond differently to stress. It takes a long time to do that, and it often takes several attempts."

I am 27 years old. On 23rd March, I will have been sober for a year – my longest period of continual sobriety since leaving the treatment centre. In the beginning I was a serial relapser, despite avidly attending 12-step meetings and following all the advice I’d been given. In early recovery, my mind was a lawless debating chamber. Reality collapsed and divided itself into reasons for resisting the urge to use, and reasons for embracing it. I developed a sophisticated system of magical thinking, auguring messages from the universe: the difference between sobriety and relapse could have been a red light, a single magpie, an answering machine. Every other thought gave me permission to call my dealer; I’d launch and torpedo a thousand rationalisations per hour. You’re so fat! Think how thin coke makes you! It’s not that bad in comparison to things like murder or arson. People are doing drugs all over the world right now – why not join them? The sheer noise of it was overwhelming, and the easiest way of silencing it was to succumb.

The potential triggers for relapse are infinite. "It could be a major life event or it could be a seemingly insignificant thing," Tyrell tells me. "It can even be a sensation at the back of your mind; an itch that you really want to scratch." Speaking to fellow addicts, it becomes clear that their experiences vary wildly. Lily, 40, relapsed after eight years of sobriety when her sister was diagnosed with breast cancer. Thirty-six-year-old Shane relapsed after losing his house and his job, and moving into a dilapidated squat. For my friend Hannah, though, the trigger was nothing so large. There’s a saying in recovery circles: "If you hang around a barbershop long enough, you’re going to get a haircut." "For me, it was just that," she tells me. "I'd been clean for over a year. I still wanted to go out and have fun, and I was socialising with people that were drinking and doing drugs. I felt like I had it nailed. I remember it was four in the morning, back at someone's house. And someone had cocaine and I just started to really, really want a line. I talked myself into doing it, thinking Oh it'll be fine, it's just one line."

Whatever the trigger, it is safe to say that relapse is by far the norm. And while it is certainly not to be recommended, it is also true that it can be turned to one’s advantage. "A relapse has the potential to be a massive learning experience," says Anthony Rhone, an addictions therapist at London’s Nightingale Hospital. "You can identify your key triggers, you can assess what isn’t working about your recovery. Moving away from active addiction is difficult, and relapse is often a part of the process – there’s nothing to say that it can’t be progressive."

The first time I relapsed, I was bereft; crushed by shame. To me, it was proof that I was worthless and a failure, and as a result, I kept it quiet and carried on using by myself. "Shame is the worst thing that can happen," Rhone says. "It just really confirms to the person who is spiralling that they aren't good enough, and not worth recovery." What they need is "self-compassion and support from peers – nobody can do it on their own."

Too often, the addiction-recovery narrative we’re subjected to is linear. Fun – fun stops – acceptance – abstinence. But this is non-representative – and besides, recovery is about so much more than not using drugs. It is about finding a way to live fully and freely. For me at least, relapse laid the groundwork for that freedom – and I think that is something close to redemption.

Some names have been changed.

Addaction’s webchat service offers confidential information and advice from trained advisors, free of charge.

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Mulberry Just Reminded Everyone Why Us Brits Are Known For Our Style

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Mulberry 's Creative Director Johnny Coca has been reinvigorating the British heritage brand since he joined back in 2015. His international perspective – he was born in Seville and previously held tenures at Celine and Louis Vuitton in Paris – has brought a fresh and contemporary appreciation for the hallmarks of British style (think checks, trench coats and suiting) without ever veering into caricature territory.

Looking back to the Swinging Sixties for SS19, all scalloped hemlines and go-go boots, this season Coca sought to reimagine British wardrobe staples with statement flair. "I think of it as the building blocks of a woman's wardrobe," he told Refinery29 at the brand's showroom in Paris. "I tried to take all of these iconic British pieces that I love – the trench, the kilt, the biker jacket – and reintroduce them in a modern way."

Photo: Courtesy of Mulberry

Raiding men's wardrobes, Coca blew up abstract geometric prints he found on work ties to create dreamy patterned midi dresses, and gave their oversized houndstooth jackets a 2019 spin by embellishing them with sequins. Checked coats were upgraded with ballooned sleeves, nine-to-five trousers with kick flares, and biker jackets with cropped hemlines and shearling collars.

As ever, colour is key to Coca's Mulberry vision. Where pop brights elevated the spring collection, for AW19 he explored classic autumnal shades and offset them with mood-boosting hues. "I love to play with colour by breaking down the classics and giving them a happier vibe," he says. That means duck egg blue on tights, lace necklines and feather-patterned dresses, and mustard yellows on studded bags and silk scarves.

Photo: Courtesy of Mulberry

The punked-up details are a highlight of every collection Coca delivers. He's professed his love for the rebellious underbelly of British style, and this season we see it in detachable chunky chains on the new hero handbag, heavy duty hoop earrings, and attitude-laden eyelets on heeled loafers. "That's why I've styled the hole-punched belts with the puffers and kilts, to break up the classic silhouettes with this punky feel," he explains.

What's so brilliant about Coca's iteration of Mulberry is that the pieces are really wearable, which as an accolade may not sound so glamorous, but is key to hooking a consumer and selling a brand. While bright colours, interesting fabrications and statement elements make Mulberry's aesthetic feel like a treat each season, it's the real woman's wardrobe on which each collection is built that keeps the whole thing pitch perfect.

Coca has the ability to make us think Oh, I could totally wear that, while simultaneously giving us a fresh view of what makes the Great British Wardrobe so, well, great.

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What We Know About MS, The Condition Selma Blair Has

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After making an appearance at the Vanity Fair Oscars after party holding a personalised cane, actress Selma Blair opened up about her experience with multiple sclerosis (MS) in a candid interview with Good Morning America yesterday. Blair described feeling symptoms of MS long before she was diagnosed, like immense fatigue and pain, but said she wasn't taken seriously by her doctors.

"I was ashamed, and I was doing the best I could, and I was a great mother, but it was killing me," Blair told Robin Roberts. She then added: "I was giving it everything to seem normal." Eventually, after falling down in front of her doctor, she had an MRI and was diagnosed with MS, which she shared in an Instagram post in August.

Often, MS is described as an "unpredictable disease" that affects the central nervous system, and Blair's story is one example of how complex and difficult it can be to diagnose MS. "If I can help anyone or help anyone be more empathetic to someone who might seem like me — or a lot worse, God forbid — then that's the least I can do," Blair told Good Morning America.

While it's great that Blair is drawing public attention to the realities of living with MS, there's a lot that researchers and doctors simply don't know about the disease — including the cause. So, here are answers to some common questions about MS:

What exactly is MS?

MS is a chronic neurological condition that affects the central nervous system (which includes the brain and spinal cord), according to the Multiple Sclerosis Foundation. When someone has MS, immune cells cause inflammation that damages myelin, a layer of fat that allows nerve signals to transmit information. This causes scar tissue, aka "sclerosis," to develop throughout multiple areas of the central nervous system.

Due to the scope of the disease throughout the body, this can result in a number of symptoms, including: vision problems, weak muscles, tremors, problems walking or balancing, fatigue, pain, bladder control problems, sexual issues, depression, involuntary laughter or crying, and cognitive changes, according to the National Institute of Neurological Disorders and Stroke. Blair told Good Morning America that MS is often referred to as the "snowflake disease," because it presents differently in everyone.

How common is MS, especially in women?

It's tough to pinpoint exactly how many people have MS, because it takes so long to diagnose, and symptoms are often missed. (On top of that, MS isn't considered a "reportable disease," meaning health care providers aren't officially required to log cases of the disease.) A 2017 study found that about 1 million people in the United States have MS, which is double what was believed to be the prevalence of the disease.

We know that MS is two-to-three times more common in women than men, likely because hormones play a role in the disease. It's also common for symptoms to develop when women are in their 20s-40s. In the Good Morning America interview, Blair described having a MS flair-up after having her son, and that's common due to the crash in hormones that occurs postpartum. Additionally, MS may have a genetic component, especially if someone's first-degree relatives (like a parent or sibling) have MS.

How is MS diagnosed?

Diagnosing MS is challenging, because there's not a single test that can show that someone has MS, according to the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. In order to be diagnosed with MS, people have to meet three criteria: neurological evidence of damage to two areas of the central nervous system; proof that the damage happened at different times; and ruling out of all other diseases that are similar to MS. Blood tests, MRIs, spinal taps, and evoked potential tests (which measure electrical activity in the brain) may be required to diagnose someone. Some studies suggest that people with MS may develop the disease for five years before receiving a clinical diagnosis.

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A Former Fyre Festival Employee Is Making High-End Rugs Out Of Plastic Waste

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If you watched Hulu's Fyre Festival documentary, Fyre Fraud, you likely remember Oren Aks, the former creative director at Jerry Media, which worked with Fyre on social media strategy for the viral-in-a-bad-way festival. In the film, Aks is outspoken about just how much of a train wreck Fyre was to work on, and he even places some of the blame for what happened on his former employer, which is best known for operating the controversial meme page FuckJerry. He's been called the unsung hero of Fyre Fraud(Chrissy Teigen is a big fan), and Page Six reported that after everything went down with the festival, he fled the country because "nobody abroad knows about Fyre."

If all of this makes you sad for Oren Aks, well, cheer up, because everyone's favourite social media guy has a new professional endeavour: creating high-end rugs made from plastic waste in collaboration with the Knot Collective. You know that old saying, when life gives you lemons, make lemonade? Well, this is kind of like that, except instead of citrus fruit and a refreshing beverage, you've got garbage and fancy rugs.

Knot Collective
Knot Collective

People, which first reported on the collaboration, notes that the rugs are limited edition — there are six designs to choose from, and each is made to order in the size of your choice — and that each pattern was designed digitally by Aks and produced using 100 percent recycled materials. Prices start at $1,178 for the smallest size and end at $8,380 for the largest size. The Knot Collective also donates a portion of their profits to Goodweave, a non-profit dedicated to ending child labor in textile factories.

The designs are cool and colourful, with big blobs of colour that could easily enliven even the most bland of rooms. But the best part is that every time someone compliments your beautiful rug, you'll get to chuckle as you fondly remember the schadenfreude-fuelled social media disaster that was Fyre Fest. And really, what more can you ask for from your home accessories?

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The Producers Of Get Out Are Making A Horror Version Of Dating Around

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If Netflix’s voyeuristic reality series Dating Around taught us anything, it’s that blind dates can be stressful as hell. (Especially if you're Gurki and you're on a date with Justin.) Now, the production company behind Get Out wants you to know that they can also be straight-up scary.

According to Deadline, Blumhouse has set its cast for the upcoming film Run Sweetheart Run. Described as a horror thriller, the film — which stars Ella Balinska, Pilou Asbaek, Clark Gregg, Aml Ameen, Dayo Okeniyi, Betsy Brandt and Shohreh Aghdashloo — is about a woman (Balinska, who will next appear in the Charlie’s Angels reboot) who is set up with a stranger. However, instead of finding love in a dimly lit bar, Balinska’s character finds herself running through the streets of Los Angeles, pursued by her psychopathic paramour.

A horror movie in which a woman is stalked by a bad man isn't exactly reinventing the genre, but it's worth noting that the film boasts a woman as its writer-director. Shana Feste, who previously directed Endless Love, has the reins here, and hopefully will treat its women characters as more than just empty victims.

Feste will also be Blumhouse's first woman director on a theatrically-released horror film. The news comes in the wake of founder Jason Blum's controversial comments on women lacking interest to work behind the scenes in horror. He has since apologised. (Blumhouse has worked with director Sophia Takal, who made anthology series Into the Dark episode "New Year, New You," but it was not a theatrical release, )

Will Run Sweetheart Run terrify us as much as Get Out? Hopefully, it will at least make us as uncomfortable as half the cringe-worthy pairings on Dating Around.

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JoAni Johnson, The 67-Year-Old Model Defying Every Fashion Stereotype

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JoAni Johnson has lived more lives than a bodega cat. A quintessential and stoic New Yorker, she was born and raised in Harlem, and hung out at Studio 54 during Warhol’s heyday decked out in Stephen Burrows. She’s worked every job from a receptionist’s desk, to sales, to running a showroom, to blending tea, and she pulls off a Norma Kamali sleeping bag coat like no one else. Now 67, she’s come out of semi-retirement for a completely unexpected modelling career.

Johnson enters an industry unsure of what to do with her story. The odds would typically be stacked against her: She’s in her seventh decade of life, stands tall at 5’4” (and a half), is unsigned to a major agency and books jobs through Instagram directly. And yet, following a viral 2016 Allure video, she’s on the cusp of a breakthrough, walking for contemporary and emerging designers, modelling in a few editorials here and there, and building a social following. And it’s not just due to her striking appearance and sharp, easy personal style (she loves Rick Owens, Demobaza and others): it’s Johnson’s charisma, a star quality that’s impossible to manufacture, that has casting directors abuzz.

If you ask her, she’ll tell you modelling is just a hobby; by day, she's a certified tea-blender. But, as she opens up about her past professional and personal lives, her triumphs and her losses, it’s clear it means so much more.

Norma Kamali Sleeping Bag coat, available at Norma Kamali; Rachel Comey top; Pleats Please by Issey Miyake turtleneck; Pyer Moss pants; Karen Walker sunglasses; Salomon boots; Vita Fede Casio earrings, available at Vita Fede.

Despite what most people may deduct from Johnson’s outer appearance, most notably an endless river of grey hair (which she’s had for the greater part of her life), she’s not a conventional product of the beauty or fashion worlds. Though she initially majored in Biology and Art in college, Johnson’s path started in numbers. “I loved math. I loved it,” she says of switching to become a math major. “But after the first semester, the teacher advised me that I was maybe in over my head. But in my junior year, she got up in front of the class and said, ‘I made a huge mistake. I suggested that this person not major in math and she just proved me wrong.’”

After graduation, Johnson moved to France for three months, but her plans to attend nursing school there were stifled by her struggle to learn technical/medical French ( amygdale, gonflement, piqûre d’abeille). She returned to New York and got a job in the Garment District. “I was always interested in fashion,” notes Johnson, who fused her love of clothes and math to get a job as an accountant for a men’s shirt company called Foxy World, a competitor of the ubiquitous Nik-Nik-style shirts. There, Johnson learned the ins and outs of pattern-making, selling and merchandising.

At her next gig, she worked remotely for a denim company based out of Dallas. “Back in the day, we had no internet. We had no cell phones,” she remembers. “When fashion happened, it took a long time for it to get from place to place. Being in New York and working with this jean company out of Dallas, whatever sold well in New York took six months to catch on in Texas.” Johnson was tasked with filtering the company’s best-selling styles to Texas, where the patterns would be adapted to fit their customers. But her Texas tale didn’t last long — “They thought I was weird” — and she moved on to work for esteemed fashion executive Warren Hirsh, of Gloria Vanderbilt, Calvin Klein, and Fiorucci fame.

Intensity Optic Boat Neck pullover, available at Orboro; Rachel Comey skirt; Pleats Please by Issey Miyake pants; Acne Technical shoes, available at Acne; Brother Vellies Melon Curly Goat Mini Island bag, available at Brother Vellies; BRRCH necklace.

“I loved it,” she says of that job, particularly her time in the Fiorucci division, where she sold the ready-to-wear line to major department stores across the country. “I still think that Elio [Fiorucci] was one of the most brilliant designers on the planet. You could pull out his stuff now and you could wear it and be fine. He was so ahead of his time.”

Her next stint in fashion, however, would turn her off of the corporate world completely. It was the ‘80s, and another fashion executive, Les Wexner, had revolutionised the apparel industry and the direct-to-consumer retail strategy. Wexner, who turned The Limited into a multi-billion dollar company, created his own manufacturing and distribution network, which ultimately put merchants and middle-women like Johnson out of a job.

“Hong Kong was really important. What they would do is: They’d come into your showroom, they’d buy anywhere between 24 to 48 pieces, they’d do the merchandising and find out which were hot sellers — and you’d never hear from them again. Then their floors would be filled with your styling but half the price of yours!” Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s — the retail landscape would never be the same. “The one that really got to me, though, was when Les [Wexner] went in and bought the Lerner Stores. He canceled everybody’s order and he came back into the marketplace and offered 5 cents to the dollar. I had people and friends who decided to leave this planet because of what he did. He ruined people’s lives. So, I made a decision to get out.”

Pleats Please by Issey Miyake top; JW Anderson pants, belt, and shoes; Rachel Comey earrings; Vintage ring.

JoAni became a stay-at-home mom, caring for Zenzele, her daughter with husband Peter Johnson, former director of admissions at Columbia University. Eventually, heading back to work after so many years out of the game, Johnson realised she was entering uncharted waters. “Every place I went to, they’d ask me, ‘Can you type?’ And I couldn’t type. When I was growing up, my mom said, ‘Do not learn how to type! If you learn how to type, that’s the only job they’re gonna put you in. You don’t wanna be a typist.’ So I never learned how to type.” But the mulish Johnson went back to school and learned how to type, and got a job that brought her corporate career full circle: as a receptionist. “I said, What am I gonna do? But then I said, I know what I’m gonna do: I’m gonna be the best damn receptionist they’ve ever seen. And I was.”

But she eventually found her way back to fashion — by happenstance. In 2016, while walking down the streets of Chelsea in Manhattan with husband Peter (“During the summertime, we used to take parts of the city and just cover them [on foot], just to see what has changed”), she was stopped by a street style photographer who asked to take her photo. Johnson unenthusiastically obliged. “I didn’t want to. But my husband said, ‘C’mon, let her take the photo.’,” she remembers. A few weeks later, a casting agent reached out to Johnson asking her to film a video about someone with grey hair. “I asked my husband first and, again, he said, ‘Go ahead, just try it.’ I didn’t know what they wanted. I was semi-retired and working on my tea blending business. But then I went and that was the Allure video.”

Nomia top and bottom; True Body bralette; Manolo Blahnik boots; BRRCH necklace.

Alongside one of her favourite designers, Norma Kamali, and writer Michaela Angela Davis, the video, on dispelling beauty myths and ageing gracefully, went viral. Like, around-the-world-in-80-seconds viral. With more than a million views, the Allure spot led to several other modelling opportunities for Johnson: she’d soon walk the runways of designers Eileen Fisher, Tome, Deveaux, and CDLM by Chris Peters. And, like one bluebird to another, her husband was there — just as he was on that Chelsea sidewalk — iPhone at the ready, supporting Johnson at every show.

“The best part of walking the runway was that my husband was going to be there. My husband wasn’t a true dandy, but he dressed impeccably. Ahead of New York Fashion Week, he searched for an entire week for an outfit!” she says. “He’d be in the audiences and when the show started, he’d want to take pictures of me so he’d jump in front of the photographers and get the shot they were getting. It annoyed them so much.” But on November 7, 2017, Peter Johnson died unexpectedly in the family's New York City home. His memorial service the following month, JoAni says, was attended by over a thousand mourners (Peter had worked at Columbia for over 30 years). For the first time in decades, JoAnni was alone. In her grief, modelling — even if she still considers it a part-time gig — has offered distraction, catharsis and a sense of purpose.

Lorod shirt; CALVINKLEIN205W39NYC Soleil Pleated Skirt, available at Calvin Klein; CALVINKLEIN205W39NYC harness; Brother Vellies Mermaid Doodle Boots, available at Brother Vellies; COS earrings.

Her breakthrough into an industry that has grown to love “real people” in recent years couldn’t be better timed. She’s got an agent, she’s amassed 18k followers on Instagram, and has recently modelled for Rachel Antonoff and The Zoe Report — Johnson is the embodiment of #greyhairdontcare. ”I consider myself timeless,” she says. But the reason she’s doing all of this, after a life in suits and at a time in her life when she doesn’t need to do it, is enough to bring a tear to the eyes of fashion’s most jaded players.

“All of this is for him,” she says, quietly. “My husband was the most wonderful man I could ever imagine. There are so many times that I know that he’s with me. On my last shoot, for example, they put on a song that was something that we used to listen to together — I knew that he was there.” Johnson slips into our last look of the day, a Nomia number topped off with Manolo Blahnik boots.

“I tell people all the time: I do this because he loved me doing it. I know that he would have wanted me to continue.”

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Hood By Air Is Coming Back From Its Hiatus

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Good news if you've been clinging to a Rihanna -approved Hood By Air T-shirt since designer Shayne Oliver announced his label would going on hiatus in 2017.

At the time, Oliver and his co-founder, Leilah Weinrab, decided to put HBA on hold in order to "to focus on their current projects." Oliver, as we would later learn, was designing a collection for Helmut Lang, and Weinrab was working on a film.

However, they maintained the hiatus was not permanent. "HBA will continue to fulfil its creative vision in the near future," a release said at the time.

They kept their promise. On Wednesday, in an interview with cool-kid Canadian e-tailer Ssense, Oliver announced Hood By Air is relaunching . "No one knows how our comeback will be received," Oliver says in the interview. "We are all hoping for the best, but we also understand some time has passed." The brand still has quite a dedicated following despite the long break. "For a while, the brand worked to make new archetypes of humans, of people we never understood or people that I wanted to meet—and many resonated with that. They still do."

Oliver hints he may skip traditional Fashion Weeks the next go-round, saying: "Fashion schedules are ridiculous! And fashion weeks, at this point, are no longer for the people that need them. You look at younger designers, and they get overshadowed by people that garner the most success from fashion weeks but don't actually need it." Instead, the designer aims to exist outside of the fashion industry vacuum. "I want to remove the brand from the conversation of just fashion in general, and allow it to exist outside of the fashion system, so people can really see I am not trying to prove anything or create a vocabulary for the fashion world."

To do that, Oliver aims to build a brand voice through its shopping experience. "A temporary retail store won't be the first thing we will do, but we will introduce new models inside our system that will offer contemporary retail experiences," he offers.

No word yet on when the new line or retail experiences will debut.

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Neverland Ranch's Price Has Been Marked Down 70% — & Still No One Wants To Buy It

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This weekend, Leaving Neverland, the highly-anticipated documentary about two of Michael Jackson's alleged abuse victims, premieres on HBO (it will air on Channel 4 ). Ahead of its release, a place extensively discussed in the documentary is in the spotlight for an unexpected reason. Yesterday, The Wall Street Journal reported that Neverland Ranch, Jackson's estate where much of the alleged abuse was said to have taken place, has been re-listed for £23 million, which is a whopping 70% less than its original asking price.

Michael Jackson lived at Neverland Ranch for 15 years. In 2015, six years after the pop star's death, his estate along with Colony Capital, the investment firm that co-owns the property, listed Sycamore Valley Ranch, which is the property's new name, for £75 million. Two years later, the asking price was reduced to £49 million. Suzanne Perkins and Kyle Forsyth, the listing agents now handling the sale of the ranch, confirmed in an email to Refinery29 this morning that it is now listed for £23 million. We reached out to Colony Capital about the decision to reduce Sycamore Valley Ranch's price once again, but it declined to comment. We also reached out to a lawyer for Jackson's estate and have yet to hear back.

Photographed by Jim Bartsch.
Photographed by Jim Bartsch.
Photographed by Jim Bartsch.

Though the role Neverland Ranch plays in Leaving Neverland and the one it played in the People v. Jackson trial and investigations are not insignificant, a lot about the property has changed since Jackson lived there. In addition to its new name and updated price tag, the property has seen extensive renovations and the famous amusement park rides have been removed.

Perhaps due to the controversy surrounding Jackson's legacy ahead of Leaving Neverland 's release, the listing agents have chosen to concentrate not on the ranch's well-publicised past but on its "entertainment facilities" and "pristine" 2,700 acres. According to Sycamore Valley Ranch's current listing, the main house has six bedrooms and nine bathrooms. On the property, there are also three separate guest homes, a four-acre lake complete with a waterfall, a 5,500-square-f00t cinema, several barns, animal shelter facilities, a covered outdoor barbecue area, a pool, and tennis courts. We'll have to wait and see if that's enough to convince someone to buy the property despite what's soon to be revealed in Leaving Neverland.

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The Triumphant True Story Behind Netflix's New Movie, The Boy Who Harnessed The Wind

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When I was 14, I was sulking in shopping centres and reading Harry Potter. When William Kamkwamba was 14, he was constructing the 36-foot windmill in a remote village in Northern Malawi that would eventually bring electric power to his family, and make life possible during a famine. William's makeshift wind turbine brought lights to their home and a water pump that irrigated their tobacco fields.

With The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind, out on Netflix on March 1, Kamkwamba's incredible life achievement gets a soaring cinematic treatment. The film was written and directed by Chiwetel Ejiofor; he also stars as William's skeptical-turned-supportive father, Trywell Kamkwamba. An adorable and charismatic Maxwell Simba plays William, the second of Trywell and Agnes Kamkwamba's seven children, and only son.

Ironically, Kamkwamba's story of tremendous engineering achievement begins with him being kicked out of school. Kamkwamba's parents were unable to pay his £60 annual tuition fee and remain afloat during the deadly Malawi famine of 2002, during which several hundred Malawians died of hunger. No longer bound to the classroom, Kamkwamba stole away from his family's maize and tobacco fields for time in his town's library. There, he checked out the English-language textbook, Using Energy, emblazoned with a windmill on the cover.

Kamkwamba knew what he wanted to do: Bring electricity and water to his village. But without money for fuel, Kamkwamba didn't immediately know how to achieve this near-impossible dream — only 1% of Malawi's rural population has access to electricity. Despite his shaky grasp of English at the time, Kamkwamba pieced together the information in the wind power textbook and set off recreating the cover's image as best he could.

Photo: Rich Fury/Getty Images.

While his friends were in class, Kamkwamba scavenged for windmill materials from the scrap yard near his former school. To his neighbours watching outside, Kamkwamba appeared to be unhinged — they called him "misala," or crazy.

“When I was making [the windmill], all these people were mocking me that I was driving mad, but I had confidence in what I was doing because I knew if it was written in the books then it was true and possible. When I succeeded they were impressed,” Kamkwamba explained to the Malawi Daily Times in 2006.

In the movie, even Kamkwamba's father struggles to wrap his mind around the concepts that come so naturally to his son. Despite facing skepticism, Kamkwamba ended up constructing a windmill using scrap metal, PVC pip, and tractor and bicycle parts. Kamkwamba's first windmill was able to power four lights, an achievement on its own.

But it's the second windmill that still towers today in the village of Wimbe, a testament to one boy's ingeniousness and can-do spirit. In addition to providing electricity, this tall windmill powered a deep well that freed Wimbe's farmers from relying entirely on the weather.

"With a windmill, I could stay awake at night reading instead of going to bed at 7 with the rest of Malawi," Kamkwamba wrote in his 2009 book, The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind. "With a windmill, we'd finally release ourselves from the troubles of darkness and hunger. A windmill meant more than just power, it was freedom."

In 2006, four years after it went up, Kamkwamba's makeshift windmill attracted the attention of local journalists. A feature story in the Malawi Daily Times proclaimed, "School Dropout With a Streak of Genius." After this accomplishment, Kamkwamba still hadn't been able to return to school. But thanks increased media coverage, a government official arranged for Kamkwamba's education to be paid for through high school. In 2007, Kamkwamba's story reached a global scale. He was the the star of a TED conference hosted in Arusha, Tanzania. There, Kamkwamba met Ted Rielly, the New York-based TED community director who helped him through college.

Kamkwamba's achievements have carried him away from his 60-family home village of Wimbe. His 2009 book The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind spent weeks on best-seller list and became mandatory reading for incoming freshmen at the University of Florida and the University of Michigan. In 2014, he graduated from Dartmouth University. By the time he was 31, he had a motion picture and a documentary made about him. And, of course, he made Time Magazine's " 30 Under 30" List.

But no matter how far he travelled, Kamkwamba's goal was always to return to Malawi and better his community. Even while he was in college in New Hampshire, Kamkwamba's mind was on Malawi. As a 24-year-old engineering student, Kamkwamba was paying for the private school of four sisters, a cousin, a friend, and some neighbours out of pocket. He also founded a soccer team and launched a fundraiser to rebuild the local school. "What I am always thinking about is how I can apply what I am learning here to help those at home,” Kamkwamba told the Dartmouth Alumni Magazine in 2011, when he was a freshman.

Kamkwamba lived up to his promise. It should come as no surprise to hear that Kamkwamba has continued his philanthropic goals. His nonprofit, Moving Windmills, is devoted to pursuing educational and developmental projects in Malawi.

The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind is out on Netflix now.

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The Street Style At Paris Fashion Week Is Making Us Rethink Our Wardrobe

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In a surprising turn of events, Paris Fashion Week is unseasonably warm this season. It is (as you will see) exposed-ankles-mini-skirts-and-hawaiian-shirts warm. Street style during these next 7 days is extra special, because while some editors may opt out of London and Milan, everyone attends Paris. Not only is it the ultimate gauge of what editors will be wearing come spring, it is a peek into what fashion and personal style means to editors around the globe. The industry's biggest designers (Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu) show here, as do the brightest rising talent (Each x Other, Ottolinger, Marques' Almeida). The shows are not to be missed, and that goes for the street style as well. It's the Oscars red carpet of fashion month, except the red carpet is the streets of Paris and the celebrities here are editors and stylists.

Textures reached an all-time high, prints extended beyond predictable florals, and there are colour combos aplenty. The styling seen here is so uniformly brilliant, it'll be easy to make these looks your own.

Here’s that gold medal and granola bar: congratulations! You’ve made it to the fashion month finish line. Click through for the looks at Paris Fashion Week that make us excited, inspired, and happy.

Spotted in the wild: parachute dresses, leopard edition.

An admirable Blue Period.

The oversized blazer is still going strong.

Take it from us: canvas is the new khaki.

A cream puff that escaped from the boulangerie across la rue.

Courtney Trop

The bigger the vest, the greater surface area for pockets. More pockets, more croissant holders.

She's in the band.

Blanca Miró Scrimieri

A textural fashion dream come true.

A Mask of Zorro hat adds that extra element of drama to your look.

Beatrice Gutu

Find yourself a bag that moonlights as a mini hula hoop.

Slouchy blazer, meet slouchy duster coat.

We're suckers for a crisp classic trench and selvedge denim.

Getting heart palps thinking about layering long sleeves under our dresses.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5 different scarves spotted under this all black ensemble.

#1 micro flag fan!

Scooby Doo's Velma in 2019.

A fashion week mainstay forever: the utilitarian jumpsuit.

Hot pink! Hot dress!

Which look are you? We're the one that says mob boss pizza shop owner.

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A Week Of Wearing Hiking Boots For Non-Hiking Purposes

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In primary school, my best friend Sean had a uniform: those iguana tees that donated a portion of the proceeds to WWF, cargo shorts and intense hiking boots (those monkey bars during break were treacherous). Today, I wear hiking boots even when I’m not trekking up the face of a mountain — and I believe that Sean, subconsciously, inspired me. And he’d be excited to learn that he was at least 15 years early to the rising "hikecore" trend. Hiking boots have evolved since our childhood: based on the needs of the 21st century hiker, some are tricked out with Gore-Tex and other technical features like Thermo tech and Nestfit, while others have morphed into sneaker x hiking boot hybrids.

My first traverse was a digital trek through the internet, where I made it my mission to find the right hiking boots in terms of weight and clunkiness. I’m naturally prone to tripping and slipping in normal shoes, so I was on the hunt for something that was lightweight, yet still protected my feet and provided ankle support. My second traverse: taking my found hiking boots through the streets of NYC, where potholes and construction workers served as my switchbacks and subway stairs as my summit. The test wasn’t simply based on stylishness, but on the ruggedness of the boot. In addition to looking super cool, I also wanted to determine whether I could comfortably wear these boots on a long hike. Enter: The Official Michelle Li Mountaineering Rating System. Five mountains means I would wear them up Mt. Whitney, one mountain means I’ll tie them on for a jaunt to the grocery store.

Click through for my weeklong sartorial journey, where I took several hikes, found myself and experienced the natural wonders of NYC.

Monday

A billowy parachute dress + rustic hiking boots = an outfit formula I've been thinking about trying for some time now. I've experienced over a thousand Mondays, and yet I still struggle to dress myself the first morning of the week. This look was easy yet made me feel all dressed up for my work week. These boots are cute for hiking through the city, but my heart can't handle taking them on any actually muddy trail and staining the leather.

Miles Walked: 6 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 3 trips, 1 slip

Rating: ⛰⛰⛰



Cole Haan Women's ZERØGRAND Explore Waterproof Hiker Boot, $212.63, available at Cole Haan

Tuesday

When I initially brainstormed outfit ideas for hiking boots, my mind automatically jumped to styling them with feminine flowy dresses. But trousers deserve hiking boots, too! I went the trusty pyjamas-as-daywear route and styled these sneaker boot hybrids with satin trousers. Do I look like I just stepped out of my tent and am ready for some instant coffee? (The only acceptable answer is yes.)

Miles Walked: 10 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 0 trips, 0 slips

Rating: ⛰⛰⛰⛰



Ganni Hightop Tech Boots, $300, available at Ganni

Wednesday

These boots are described on the Cat Footwear website as "overbuilt" and it's a term that I wish I’d come up with myself. With shoes as quirky as hiking boots, you can also get creative with your sock choices. I chose to match mine with the yellow details on the shoe and my dress. I'm tempted to pick up a hard hat, fluoro vest, crampons and spork (an important eating utensil when on the trail).

Miles Walked: 13 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 3 trips, 2 slips

Rating: ⛰⛰⛰⛰⛰



CAT Footwear Intruder Neutrals, $85, available at CAT Footwear

Bombas Women's Classic Marls Calf, $10, available at Bombas

Thursday

I have a tendency to bring two books (aka 5 extra lbs) when I go backpacking. This outfit is my ode to that not-so-practical bibliophile. She can make her way through the New York Times bestseller list while simultaneously making her way through the Appalachian Trail carrying a heavy load. 10/10 would actually hike the AT with these puppies.

Miles Walked: 8 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 4 trips, 2 slips

Rating: ⛰⛰⛰⛰⛰



Salomon QUEST 4D 3 GTX W, $180, available at Salomon

Friday

This is my interpretation of hikecore, but with non-hiking clothing from my own closet. La Sportiva typically makes rock climbing shoes, which is probably why these hug my feet in all the right places. Naturally, they hug my heart in all the right places as well.

Miles Walked: 7 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 1 trip, 0 slips

Rating: ⛰⛰⛰⛰



La Sportiva Trango TRK GTX Women's, $167.34, available at La Sportiva

Saturday

Gymnast, but make it fashion. Keep in mind that cartwheels and trekking are not mutually exclusive! I loved the colours on these boots, and had a two-hour internal debate about whether I should keep things monochrome or let the colours contrast. I settled on letting the colours clash — a favourite styling tip of mine. Despite their exciting colours, these boots didn't provide my feet with the support I would need for serious hikes. Meh.

Miles Walked: 6.5 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 2 trips, 0 slips

Rating: ⛰⛰



Oboz Juniper Mid BDry Hiking Boots, $110.33, available at REI

Sunday

I probably wore an outfit similar to this in elementary school (just add a Hello Kitty backpack). Unfortunately, the support on these boots had too much support, and dug into the arch of my foot.

After a week of hiking boots, I can say with confidence that my favourite way to wear the technical boot is with something unexpected. Today it’s a bright orange wrap dress, and tomorrow might be a tulle princess dress. This is what makes the hiking boot (surprise!) the ultimate versatile shoe — not just in terms of utility, but also in terms of wearability with non-hiking outfits.

Miles Walked: 10 miles

Trip and Slip Count: 4 trips, 2 slips

Rating: ⛰⛰



The North Face Ultra Fastpack III Mid GTX, $75, available at The North Face

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